Hot springs in Hokkaido: Enjoying a soak in the chill of Hokkaido’s winter
Mention Hokkaido (北海道), and images of landscapes blanketed in pure, white snow come instantly to mind. A wintry wonderland, Hokkaido is famous for its elaborate snow festivals and pristine ski slopes. And at the end of a day of sightseeing, weary travellers often indulge in a quintessentially Japanese ritual that, while enjoyed by many year-round, is best enjoyed in the cold.
Having a dip in an onsen (Japanese hot spring) is perhaps one of the most traditional experiences tourists can have while on holiday. While other parts of Japan like Wakura Onsen in Ishikawa and Dōgō Onsen in Ehime have traditionally been known for their waters, Hokkaido is no slouch in this area, boasting many famous baths of her own. Visitors familiar with the largest prefecture in Japan would have already heard of or even been to famous places such as Jōzankei (定山渓) and Noboribetsu (登別). For those seeking something a little different, the following three places might be of interest to you!
1. Yunokawa Onsen (湯の川温泉), Hakodate
A map of Yunokawa Onsen. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
Located around 30 minutes by bus or tram away from JR Hakodate Station (函館駅), the gateway to southern Hokkaido, Yunokawa Onsen is frequently termed as one of the three great hot spring areas in Hokkaido, together with the aforementioned Jōzankei and Noboribetsu. Unlike its counterparts, Yunokawa sits right by the sea, meaning that visitors have the added luxury of being able to view the ocean from their baths.
Footbath at Yunokawa Onsen tram station. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
There are close to 20 establishments, from traditional inns to hotels, and nearly half of them open their baths to day visitors looking for a quick dip. For those who find the sudden prospect of soaking in a bath amidst strangers daunting, Yunokawa Onsen has a free footbath right next to the tram station for people to soak their feet in, allowing them to have a taste of what an onsen is like.
While Hakodate is famous for spots like the night view from Mount Hakodate (函館山 Hakodate-yama) and Goryōkaku (五稜郭), Yunokawa Onsen has a few sightseeing spots of its own! There’s a tropical botanical garden with hot spring monkeys and a shrine with a history of over 400 years, so those with some time to spare in Hakodate should definitely check it out!
Yunokawa Onsen (湯の川温泉)
Address: Yunokawa, Hakodate, Hokkaido, 042-0392
Nearest stations: JR Hakodate Station, JR Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station (JR函館駅・新函館北斗駅) / Hakodate City Tram Yunokawa Onsen Stop (函館市電湯の川温泉)
Tel: +81-138-57-8988
Writer’s note: From JR Hakodate Station, take a bus or the city tram. From JR Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, you can either take a local train to JR Hakodate Station before transferring to a bus or city tram, or you can take a bus that goes directly to Yunokawa Onsen.
2. Nukabira Onsen (糠平温泉), Kami-Shihoro
The inner baths at Nakamura-ya, Nukabira Onsen. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
While Yunokawa Onsen is easily accessible, the other two in this list are slightly further away from their respective nearest stations but offer a good retreat from the bustle of city life.
(One of the bridges of the former JNR Shihoro Line. Image credit: Kevin Koh)
Nestled in a corner of the Daisetsuzan National Park (大雪山国立公園 Daisetsuzan Kokuritsu Kōen), what makes Nukabira Onsen so special is that all of the onsen facilities in town make use of hot spring waters straight from the source itself, unlike other places where the hot spring waters are filtered and recycled in a closed-loop bath. This makes the hot springs at Nukabira Onsen particularly fresh, which I would like to think means that it brings even more positive effects to one’s health! Additionally, the onsen waters at Nukabira Onsen can also be drunk, and they are believed to help relieve constipation and other ailments related to the digestive tract.
Nukabira Onsen is also a haven for those who like to visit abandoned railway lines—the JNR Shihoro Line used to run through the town before it got discontinued in 1987, and a series of old bridges previously used by the line still dot the scenery. The most famous of them all would have to be the Taushubetsu River Bridge (タウシュベツ川橋梁 Taushubetsugawa-kyōryō)—the Higashi-Taisetsu Nature Guide Centre located in the town conducts guided tours to bring visitors around to view these bridges, as visiting them on one’s own can be dangerous, so it is recommended to sign up for one with them.
Nukabira Onsen (糠平温泉)
Address: 48-2 Nukabira Gensenkyo, Kami-Shihoro, Katō-gun, Hokkaido, 080-1403
Nearest station: JR Obihiro Station (JR帯広駅)
Tel: +81 1564-4-2311
Writer's note: From JR Sapporo Station, take a Limited Express Ōzora or Tokachi, both of which stop at JR Obihiro Station . From JR Obihiro Station, take a bus from the bus terminal in front of the station. 4 buses/day, approximately 1 hour 45 minutes from JR Obihiro Station to Nukabira Onsen.
3. Onneyu Onsen (温根湯温泉), Rubeshibe
The last entry in this list is situated in the Okhotsk (オホーツク) region of Hokkaido, facing the Sea of Okhotsk. Onneyu Onsen is located in the outskirts of Kitami City (北見市 Kitami-shi), the largest city in the Okhotsk region, and its location makes it ideal for a day excursion out of Kitami or Abashiri, the other major city in the region.
A fox at the Kita-Kitsune Farm, Onneyu Onsen. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
Onneyu Onsen is the smallest onsen town in this list, featuring only two large hotels and a smattering of inns. Just like Nukabira Onsen, though, it touts hot spring waters that are straight from the source, and the slightly alkaline waters are said to have an anti-ageing effect. The Muka River winds through the town, so guests staying at either of the two large hotels are able to have magnificent views of the river and town from the communal bathing facilities.
Apart from its hot springs, Onneyu Onsen is home to a few interesting tourist sites—the Northern Daichi Aquarium has a few unique exhibits that make use of Onneyu’s hot spring waters, including an aquarium where the top freezes over in winter, allowing visitors to observe how fish behave in rivers during winter. There is also the Kita-Kitsune Farm, a farm allowing visitors to get up close with foxes and watch them play with each other, as well as the world’s largest cuckoo clock outside the roadside station a stone’s throw away from these two attractions.
Onneyu Onsen（温根湯温泉）
Address: 111-2 Onneyuonsen, Rubeshibe, Kitami, Hokkaido, 091-0170
Nearest stations: JR Rubeshibe Station, JR Kitami Station (JR留辺蘂駅・JR北見駅）
Tel: +81 1574-5-2921
Writer’s note: From JR Sapporo Station, take a Limited Express Okhotsk, which stops at both JR Rubeshibe Station and JR Kitami Station. From JR Asahikawa Station, take a Limited Express Taisetsu, which also stops at both. From either station, take a bus—there is a bus terminal at JR Kitami Station, while for JR Rubeshibe Station the bus leaves from the bus stop in front of the station. 8 buses/day, approx. 1 hour from JR Kitami Station, 15 minutes from JR Rubeshibe Station.
Closing
Apart from the well-known onsen destinations, Hokkaido also has many lesser-known hot springs waiting for you to discover them. Take a trip outside of Sapporo and Asahikawa and travel northwards, and you will be rewarded for your efforts!
Header image credit: Kevin Koh
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