More than just the moss: 10 other things to do in Yakushima
It’s hard to think of Yakushima (屋久島) without the symphonies of Hisaishi Joe running through your mind (and perhaps the Shishigami on its roaring rampage also). It was the same for me, too. Alongside that audiotrack came the mental picture of hard trekking through the unforgiving wilderness, completely suited up in rainproof hiking gear and provisions on my back.
Don’t get me wrong, Yakushima can be like that, and is indeed the reason why many flock to the UNESCO World Natural Heritage site in Kagoshima Prefecture (鹿児島県 Kagoshima-ken). Still, there’s much to enjoy in Yakushima even in a pair of track shoes and jeans. It’s even possible to float separate itineraries—the hiker(s) in the family can do their forest commune, while the rest can kick back and enjoy the idyllic life. Here’s my list of things to do for the non-serious hiker.
1. Nagata Inakahama Beach
(Image credit: Jia Han)
Yakushima is the place where Green and Loggerhead turtles nest most frequently in Japan. Their nesting period is May–July, and you would have to show up at night, but the beach is still worth visiting in the day.
Nagata Inakahama Beach (永田いなか浜)
Address: Nagata, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4201
Access: 26-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
2. Yahazudake Shrine
(Video credit: Kagoshima Prefectural Visitors’ Bureau)
A fishermen’s shrine located in a natural cave. Enjoy the beautiful view from the cliff before taking the leisurely 5-minute stroll down the well-paved path as the shy sea roaches scuttle hurriedly out of your way. It feels like a secret adventure.
Yahazudake Shrine (八筈嶽神社)
Address: Issoō 2292, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4203
Access: 19-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
3. Shitogo Banyan Garden
(Image credit: Jia Han)
“The chances of getting lost inside…” The woman said as we paid her the entrance fee. She stopped speaking.
“Getting lost inside?” We repeated back, surprised—the garden did not look that big.
“The chances of getting lost inside are zero," she said. We stared at her, unsure whether to laugh politely in response.
Eccentric staff aside, the garden is perhaps a half-hour attraction—packing quite a few gigantic banyan trees within the small area. They are truly impressive, as are the mosquitos, so you really don’t want to spend more than half an hour there unless you have too much blood to spare.
Shitogo Banyan Garden (志戸子ガジュマル公園)
Address: 133-1 Shitogo, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4204
Access: 13-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
Opening hours: 8:30am–5pm
Admission fee: ¥240
Tel: +81 997-42-0079
4. Seibu Rindo Forest Path
(Video credit: Jia Han)
Along the west coast of Yakushima is a road that meanders through the forest, through the UNESCO World Heritage area. Drive through quietly, and you’ll be likely treated to a private safari from your car. Yakushima deer graze fearlessly alongside the road, and monkeys groom themselves with an equal lack of concern.
Seibu Rindo Forest Path (西部林道)
Address: Yakushima-cho, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima
Access: 30-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
Note: The approximately 26km coastal road starts slightly before the Yakushima Lighthouse, and ends before Ohko Waterfall.
5. Hachimanju Tea Garden
(Image credit: Jia Han)
Not many people know this, but Yakushima’s tea is actually really famous. Hachimanju Tea Garden is a farm that began in 1985, and has also set up a humble little shop to sell its produce. Besides many different varieties of tea, the shop also offers up a tasty matcha soft-serve and other souvenirs.
Hachimanju Tea Garden (お茶工房 八万寿園)
Address: 532-24 Koseda, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4207
Access: 22-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
Opening hours: 8:30am–5pm (irregular rest days)
Tel: +81 99-743-5330 (Facebook page)
6. Sungun Burger
(Image credit: Jia Han)
Yakushima actually has an overpopulation of deer. However, the innkeeper I spoke to told me that the factories which could actually process deer meat had all been closed for a long period of time. They only reopened four years ago, and finally venison is back on the menu. This little shack I went to at lunch time had a long queue. Sadly, there was no supply of venison for that day, but their beef burger was great as well.
Sungun Burger (サンガンバーガー)
Address: 110-1 Anbo, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4311
Access: 30-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
7. Guesthouses
(Image credit: Jia Han)
The many guesthouses (民宿 minshuku) around the island are in fierce competition, and we were spoilt for choice when planning the itinerary. These are great places for you to try the island cuisine, and can also be a great base for you to work from: the owners are naturally knowledgeable, and can advise you on good itineraries. Some even rent out hiking gear, in case you don’t have your own.
I visited Rokumeian, a beautifully furnished guesthouse with a cosy wooden interior and wonderful food. The baths are even hand-warmed, and the host will stoke the fires up before you have your bath. Dinner was a tasty affair including a double-fried flying fish, an assortment of sashimi, stewed onion, and an oyster baked in cheese, among other delectables.
Rokumeian (鹿鳴庵)
Address: 835-272 Koseda, Yakushima, Kumage District, Kagoshima 891-4207
Access: 20-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
Tel: +81-99-749-4225
8. Ohko Waterfall
(Video credit: Jia Han)
Ohko Waterfall is among the Top 100 Waterfalls of Japan. It’s a double waterfall, and absolutely huge. We came on a slightly drizzly day, and the rainfall only made the waterfall(s?) that much bigger. Even from a distance away, you can feel the mist and spray from the waterfall, and some adventurous photographer was clambering across the rocks to get even closer (you can see him in the video, he’s a convenient scale for you to imagine the size.
Ohko Waterfall (大川の滝)
Address: Kurio, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4409
Access: 70-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
9. Torokino Falls
(Image credit: Jia Han)
This waterfall is special because it flows directly into the Pacific Ocean. You can park at the roadside station opposite, and then take a 5-minute stroll to the viewing spot. I also liked the round basin and how frothy the waterfall was. It strongly reminded me of a cappuccino.
Torokino Falls (トローキの滝)
Address: Mugio, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4402
Access: 43-minute drive from Miyanoura Port
10. Issou Coffee
(Image credit: Issou Coffee’s Instagram)
Speaking of coffee, there is an excellent place right at the harbour, where you can get your fix while waiting for your boat back. Housed on the second floor of a dowdy-looking ticket office, this tucked-away gem gets a strong recommendation from me. They have a wide selection of blends, grind your coffee to order, and also have some classy souvenirs including fancy chocolates and coffee-making gear. They even wrote their own guidebook to Yakushima, which the kind owners would be more than happy to share with you.
Issou Coffee (一湊珈琲焙煎所)
Address: 2F, 1208 Miyanoura, Yakushima, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4205
Access: 2-minute walk from Miyanoura Port
Access for Yakushima
Getting to Yakushima, board the high speed boat from Kagoshima City (鹿児島市 Kagoshima-shi) or Ibusuki (指宿市 Ibusuki-shi) to Miyanoura Port (宮之浦港), which takes 2–3 hours, depending on how many stops the boat makes. Alternatively, fly into Yakushima Airport (屋久島空港 Yakushima Kūkō) from Kagoshima Airport, Fukuoka, or Osaka.
Yakushima is best explored by car. Rental cars are available, and some will even provide pick-up and sending off services to the airport/port before and after your trip.
If you go to Google Images and type in Yakushima, you’ll be greeted by a monochrome of green. Hopefully this article helped to flesh out Yakushima’s character as more than just the moss. It holds attractions for everyone, from the foodie to the avid hiker. And in this climate, perhaps a people-less nature is more appealing than ever.
Other links
Kagoshima Prefectural Visitors Bureau has also put together an entire playlist of short videos featuring different aspects of Yakushima. Do check it out!
Kagoshima Prefecture has a collection of beautifully shot videos on food and scenery all around Kagoshima, including a general video on Yakushima, Ohko Waterfall, a timelapse video of Inakahama Beach’s sunset.
Header image credit: Jia Han
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