A foodie’s guide around the Yamanote Line! (Part 1)
Truth be told, I have been on a ‘food pilgrimage’ to Japan before. That is, I have travelled to Japan for the sole purpose of discovering places to eat. For most parts it involved a lot of ramen but there have been times when I craved something different. There’s never a shortage for good food in Japan, and many repeated travellers to Japan would agree.
Adventurers such as myself would not be deterred by the remoteness of any place that serves good food; for the record, I have travelled as far as Rishiri Island off the coast of Wakkanai City in the northernmost prefecture of Hokkaido just to check out a ramen place! However, when I went for the pilgrimage, I wanted to give myself some stipulations: every ramen joint I visit must be in central Tokyo. Preferably, it must be easily accessible; in short, it must be walkable from a train station.
JR Yamanote Line. (Image credit: Pakutaso)
In this article, I’m going to introduce to you some of my favourite dining places that are only a few minutes’ walk from a JR Yamanote Line station. Otherwise known as the ‘circle line’ of Tokyo, JR Yamanote Line is perhaps the most popular and widely used JR line in the city for both the locals and foreign travellers. And in fact, if you ask any repeated traveller to Tokyo, they can tell you their fond memories about the line, be it the iconic chimes or even the notorious rush hours in the mornings or evenings.
Without fail, I find myself taking the line time and time again whenever I’m in Tokyo. And of course, when I’m taking the train, food is almost always involved. So, without further ado, here are my top picks of my favourite places to eat near selected JR Yamanote Line stations!
JR Gotanda Station: DevilCraft
JR Gotanda Station (JR五反田駅 Gotanda-eki) is in the Shinagawa Ward of Tokyo, and on the southwestern side of the Yamanote Line. Compared to the other stations on the line, Gotanda is a lot quieter as less passengers would transit here for work.
Gotanda is one of my less obvious choices when it comes to stations close with places with good food. In fact, I wouldn’t know anything about the area around this station if it wasn’t for my good friend who was living and working in the city. He recommended me a place called DevilCraft once because of one thing he often craved but is almost impossible to get in Japan: the Chicago-styled deep-dish pizza.
Chicago-styled deep-dish pizza. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
The deep-dish pizza is an iconic dish synonymous with Chicago, where the classic Italian pizza is given an extreme makeover. Unlike the traditional flat type of pizza, the Chicago style has a thick and deep crust, so the pizza has much more fillings such as cheese and tomato sauce.
Chicago-styled deep-dish pizza. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
The deep-dish pizza is perhaps one of the last things anyone would expect to see in a place like Tokyo, Japan. I never knew something like this would exist, if my friend hadn’t introduced me to it! But I must warn you: it’s not for the faint-hearted, and it’s not a one-man dish. It’s perfect for groups with big appetites, and for special occasions. It’s decadent, and perhaps unassuming when one of their branches is in a place as unassuming as Gotanda. If anyone wants to know what’s there close to JR Gotanda Station, this is my answer.
DevilCraft
Address: 9F Seijitsu Bldg. Nishigotanda 2-7-8, Shinagawa Ward, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Gotanda Station (JR五反田駅)
Opening hours: 5pm–11pm (Tuesdays to Fridays), 3pm–11pm (Saturdays), 3pm–10pm (Sundays and national holidays)
Tel: +81-3-6421-7788
JR Akihabara Station: Butayaro
Akihabara is a place that is synonymous with several things. It used to be known mostly as the to-go place for electronics and computer-related goods, but since the 2010s it gradually became the mecca for Japanese popular subculture, and a major shopping district for goods related to video games, anime and manga.
Many of my anime-crazy friends make it an imperative to come here every time they’re in Tokyo, and I used to be like that too. But what many people would not know, is that Akihabara has amazing food! One of the places I discovered some time ago, is a place called Butayaro that serves authentic buta-don.
Butayaro is a small shop sitting just next to the Kanda River, and is a 10-minute walk from JR Akihabara Station (JR秋葉原駅 Akihabara-eki). Step inside the establishment, and you will be greeted with a row of single-seated table counter facing the main kitchen. It’s reminiscent of your typical no-nonsense ramen joint, and better yet, the meats are cooked right in front of you.
Meats cooked in front of you. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
Butadon is simply a rice bowl with generous amounts of barbecued pork simmered with sweet sauce on top. The dish originates from Obihiro in Hokkaido and has since become popular throughout Japan. I discovered this place when I was meeting my friend from one of University of Tokyo’s campuses nearby.
Butadon. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
There’s nothing complex about the butadon; it’s simple yet completely satisfying. It’s more of a comfort food that can be perfectly enjoyed as a quick lunch or as a solution to prevent hangover in the wee hours of the morning. Although it originated from Hokkaido, the quality here is just as good, and since it’s only a few minutes’ walk from Akihabara station, it’s also wonderfully convenient.
Butayaro
Address: 3F, 2-6-15 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Akihabara Station (JR秋葉原駅) or JR Ochanomizu Station (JR御茶ノ水駅)
Opening hours: 11am–11pm (Mondays to Saturdays), closed on Sundays
Tel: +81-3-3219-9322
JR Shinjuku Station: Fuunji
Is it any surprise that my article features ramen? It shouldn’t if you personally know me. This one has one of the most convenient locations in Tokyo, as it’s only a 5-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station (JR新宿駅 Shinjuku-eki). Shinjuku Station is perhaps the busiest station in Tokyo, and probably the most widely recognized among foreign travellers. And of course, food establishments are bountiful here; anyone would be spoilt for choice thinking about where to eat here. For me, my answer is Fuunji.
Signboard of Fuunji. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
Fuunji specialises in tsukemen (つけめん), a ramen variant that is native to Tokyo where it consists of dipping noodle into a sauce and slurping them up instead of the traditional broth kind. Fuunji is critically acclaimed even among hardcore ramen fans; it has a cult following among its patrons. Even before the store opens, there will be a beeline stretching up to even a few blocks!
Tsukemen at Fuunji. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
If anyone wants to know what perfect tsukemen is, I will point them to Fuunji. This is bar none one of the best tsukemen I have ever tasted anywhere in the world! And don’t let the beeline of patrons waiting outside turn you off; it’s a testament to just how beloved their food is. Once you tried the tsukemen, you won’t look at it the same way again.
Fuunji (風雲児)
Address: 2-14-3 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Shinjuku Station (JR新宿駅)
Opening hours: 11am–3pm, 5pm–9pm
This is only the first part of my food hunts near the JR Yamanote Line. Tune in for the second part for more discoveries on what to eat that’s only a few minutes’ walk away from the famous train line!
(INSIDER TIP: for all the above, if you have the JR TOKYO Wide PASS, all the train trips on the Yamanote Line are free!)
JR TOKYO Wide Pass
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass, and where you can use it. (Image credit: JR East)
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass is an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 3 consecutive days. At ¥15,000, you can use it to travel from Tokyo to many other places within the designated areas, such as Nikko, GALA Yuzawa, Karuizawa and more. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. (Image credit: JR East)
Header image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang
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