So you want to be a Samurai? A tour around samurai city Hioki
One cloudy weekend, I attended a free Hioki City (日置市 Hioki-shi) tour for foreign residents, conducted by Minaminihon Broadcasting (MBC). Some context: such monitor tours are common in Japan, organised by both the government and private sector companies. They could be looking to pilot a new tourism itinerary and solicit feedback, or simply to revitalise the area and increase publicity. This one also ended up as a local television programme.
How to be Samurai
Some of the staff had also dressed up in the traditional armour for us to take photos. (Image credit: Jia Han)
As a small city in Kagoshima Prefecture (鹿児島県 Kagoshima-ken), one feature of Hioki’s tourism is samurai-related tourism. We first went to Ijuin Station (伊集院駅 Ijuin-eki), where there is a large statue of Shimadzu Yoshihiro (島津義弘), an outstanding general from the Shimadzu clan. (Fascinating history, do check out the riveting write-ups by Alex, the Head of Overseas Business for Shimadzu Limited.)
One of the grandest events of Kagoshima is the annual Myouenji Pilgrimmage (妙円寺詣り Myōenji mairi), where ordinary folk don samurai armour and walk either 10km or 20km on the 4th Saturday of October, ending at Tokushige Shrine. Plenty of people also show up in ordinary clothes to participate. The reason for this is again tied to Shimadzu Yoshihiro.
One famous feat of Shimadzu Yoshihiro was his decision during the great Battle of Sekigahara. On 21 October 1600, he decided to escape with his band of 1,500 men not by avoiding the 30,000-strong enemy, but by charging through their midst and executing a magnificent retreat plan after breaking through enemy lines. After that year, the Shimadzu warriors would march a 40km round trip from Ijuin to Myoenji Temple each year on the night before, in remembrance of that fateful day and to strengthen themselves physically and mentally. In 1869, Myoenji Temple was destroyed in the wave of Buddhist expulsion sentiment that swept through Japan, and was rebuilt as Tokushige Shrine.
(Image credit: Jia Han)
Tokushige Shrine (above). I didn’t take a full picture of the wide grounds but now in retrospect that would have helped us imagine the scale of the festivities better.
(Image credit: Kagoshima Prefecture Visitors Bureau)
Here’s an official picture (above) of the yearly walk, back from pre-Covid times.
(Image credit: Jia Han)
Later we also visited Yoshitoshi Gunjijou, a cosy little building well-furnished with many different sets of armour for us to try on. They were all stored in those modern clear plastic boxes, and I found the contrast mildly amusing. The armour was surprisingly light, but a huge hassle to put on, as you can see from the number of pieces.
The only real protection here is the mask. (Image credit: Jia Han)
Each piece had loops that connected to the adjacent pieces, which meant that everything felt like it was falling off until you put the last piece on. Suddenly everything held everything else in place, and the armour became snug as a bug in a rug.
Ijuin Station (伊集院駅)
Address: Ijuincho Tokushige, Hioki, Kagoshima 899-2502
Tokushige Shrine (徳重神社)
Address: 1787 Ijuincho Tokushige, Hioki, Kagoshima 899-2502
Nearest station: Ijuin Station (伊集院駅)
Access: 6-minute walk from Ijuin Station
Yoshitoshi Gungijou (よしとし 軍議場)
Address: 3067-1 Hiyoshicho Yoshitoshi, Hioki, Kagoshima 899-3203
Nearest station: Ijuin Station (伊集院駅)
Access: 15-minute drive from Ijuin Station
Opening hours: 9:30am–6pm (Closed on Tuesdays–Thursdays)
Admission fee: The armour wearing experience is approximately 2 hours, including taking photos, mock sword fights, and dismantling yourself. The cost depends on how high you wish to rank:
- (Vice) General: ¥4,400
- Ordinary: ¥3,300
- Children: ¥2,200
Tel: +81 99-295-3899
Email: yoshitoshigungijou@gmail.com
Diversify, Samurai-san.
That ends the samurai-sed itinerary. Say you don’t just want to channel the spirit of the warrior. Happily, Hioki City has much in the way of food and culture to offer as well:
Eguchi Horaikan
My sashimi don lunch. (Image credit: Jia Han)
A famous michi-no-eki (道の駅 roadside station) in Hioki, Eguchi Hōraikan (江口蓬莱館) is located right beside a beach for summer activities. Besides the restaurant selling delicious and cheap seafood, there’s a huge mart selling fresh local produce and a sweet potato stand where they keep things traditional over a stone grill.
Eguchi Horaikan (江口蓬莱館)
Address: 7425-5 Izakuda, Higashiichikicho, Hioki, Kagoshima 899-2203
Nearest station: Higashi-Ichiki Station (東市来駅)
Access: 6-minute drive from Higashi-Ichiki Station
Opening hours: 9am–5:30pm (Closed on Tuesdays)
Cost: Meals are approximately ¥1,000
Tel: +81 99-274-7666
Email: info@eguchihouraikan.com
Miyama House
Don’t hold back! Gotta pluck ‘em all! (Image credit: Jia Han)
Try your hands at strawberry picking at Miyama House (美山ハウス)! The huge greenhouse is divided into left for the Satsuma Otome (さつまおとめ) variety and right for the Sagahonoka (さがほのか) variety. Satsuma Otome is a Kagoshima local variety, characterised by its large, juicy, and pure sweetness. Sagahonoka has a slight sour tang to it, but still quite sweet overall.
Miyama House (片平観光農園 (美山ハウス))
Address: 2227 Miyama, Higashiichikicho, Hioki, Kagoshima 899-2431
Nearest station: Ijuin Station (伊集院駅)
Access: 7-minute drive from Ijuin Station
Opening hours: 10am–5pm (Only available between January–May)
Admission fee: ¥1,600–¥1,800 (depending on strawberry variety) for 30 minutes of all-you-can-pluck-and-eat
Tel: +81 90-3323-8123
Miyama Toyukan
(Image credit: Jia Han)
A pottery shop and crafts place. Miyama Tōyukan (美山陶遊館) is known as the birthplace of satsuma-yaki (薩摩焼 Satsuma pottery). Satsuma-yaki began as a result of the Korean potters that were brought back to Kagoshima, and a commemoration plaque stands behind the building.
Miyama Toyukan (美山陶遊館)
Address: 1051 Miyama, Higashiichikicho, Hioki, Kagoshima
Nearest station: Higashi-Ichiki Station (東市来駅)
Access: 6-minute drive from Higashi-Ichiki Station
Opening hours: 8:30am–5pm (Closed on Mondays)
Admission fee: ¥2,090 for a 45-minute potter’s wheel experience (pictured). 1kg of clay is provided, and up to 2 pieces can be made. The pieces take 2 months to be fired and delivered (Time varies depending on demand).
Tel: +81 99-274-5778
Email: miyamatouyukan@yahoo.co.jp
Kanosuke Distillery
(Image credit: Jia Han)
A beautiful whiskey distillery where they mature their whiskey unregulated in the mild Kagoshima climate. A guided tour is available in both Japanese and English. Sipping whiskey during the tasting as I watched the black kites take wing was a luxurious experience.
Kanosuke Distillery (嘉之助蒸溜所)
Address: 845-3 Kaminokawa, Hiyoshi-cho, Hioki, Kagoshima
Nearest station: Higashi-Ichiki Station (東市来駅)
Access: 11-minute drive from Higashi-Ichiki Station
Opening hours: 10am–4.30pm (Closed on Mondays)
Admission fee: ¥1,000 for a guided tour (English available) that includes tasting.
Tel: +81 99-201-7700
Email: info@kanosuke.com
Hioki City is a bedroom town for Kagoshima City due to its proximity. Just like a bedroom which is built for privacy and personal enjoyment, Hioki City’s attractions are very close to the local interests, rather than tourist-centered. The trade-off is a lack of transportation access within the city. Hioki City is a recommended addition to your Kagoshima visit, especially if you drive.
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