Uchiko: Shikoku's hidden outpost of a bygone Japan
When I first arrived in Uchiko (内子) in Ehime Prefecture, it seemed like just another small countryside town left behind in Japan’s rush to urbanisation. There was hardly a car in sight when I set off from the station and down the main street into the old town center. As twilight set in and the crickets and other early-evening insects began their calls, I arrived at the inn where I would spend my next 24 hours. Not sure what to expect, I gently knocked, opened the door, and entered a world far-removed from the modern city of Osaka I had just left behind.
Traditional Accommodation
My accommodation in Uchiko was a traditional wooden townhouse renovated by master craftsmen to provide complete privacy, luxury, and comfort in a classic setting. Run by Uchiko no Yado (内子の宿), the Ori (織) townhouse was one of four properties offered by the company to visitors staying in Uchiko. As part of the accommodation fee at Ori, guests not only get the whole house entirely to themselves, but also enjoy a traditional breakfast freshly prepared right in the house’s kitchen. Honouring the layout and architecture of the original structure first built here long ago, this townhouse was the perfect start to my journey into 19th-century Japan.
The Townhouse Ori. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
Uchiko no Yado (内子の宿)
Address: 1995, Uchiko-cho, Kita-gun, Ehime, 791-3301
Nearest station: Uchiko Station (内子駅)
Tel: +81-893-44-5735
A Historic Townscape
Like many towns in rural Japan, Uchiko has existed for centuries. It wasn’t until the 1800s, however, that the area saw real prosperity thanks to the booming production and trade of local paper and wax. Indeed, the vestiges of this good fortune are still evident in the Yokaichi (八日市) and Gokoku (護国) districts, which have been collectively designated as an “Important Traditional Construction Preservation Area” by the national government.
Yokaichi-Gokoku District. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
After finishing my breakfast and taking a quick dip in Ori’s private and expansive stand-alone bath, I headed out to explore the approximately 600-meter stretch of road that makes up the Yokaichi and Gokoku districts of Uchiko’s old town. Lined with around 120 old merchant houses and historical residences, the lane offers a picturesque snapshot of the white-plastered buildings that once bustled with artisanal and mercantile activity. One such structure, the Kamihaga Residence (上芳我邸 Kamihagatei), gives visitors a glimpse into the history of Uchiko and its wax industry, while enveloping them in the architecture and atmosphere that give this town its special appeal. Featuring tatami (畳) rooms, wooden corridors, and a spacious inner court, this residence presents a stunning example of late 19th-century architectural styles.
Kamihaga Residence (上芳我邸)
Address: 2696, Uchiko, Uchiko-cho, Kita-gun, Ehime, 791-3301
Nearest station: Uchiko Station (内子駅)
Opening hours: 9am–4:30pm
Admission fee: ¥500 (Kamihaga Residence only) / ¥900 (including museum and Uchiko Theatre)
Tel: +81-893-44-2771
A Hidden Shrine and A Classic Theatre
Ten Shrine. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
Upon completing my tour of the Kamihaga complex, I began heading back to my townhouse when I noticed a narrow path between two buildings that led up the side of a hill into a dense forest. Believing that all paths stumbled upon are best explored, I started down the paved trail and walked up a seemingly endless staircase, until I arrived at a point overlooking all of Uchiko. The observation point with its view of the historic town quarters was only a few steps ahead of Ten Shrine (天神社 Ten-jinja), which lay just out of sight, shrouded in the mystery of the surrounding trees. When entering the grounds of a small countryside shrine, one immediately notices a change in the air. In this, Ten Shrine was no different. After taking a moment to appreciate my luck in finding this hidden outpost of a bygone Japan, I departed for my next destination, Uchiko’s classic kabuki theatre, Uchiko-za (内子座 Uchiko Theatre).
Built in 1916 as a traditional kabuki (歌舞伎) theatre, Uchiko-za is considered by many to be the highlight of this town. A testament to the former glory of Uchiko more than a century ago, the elaborately-designed theatre still attracts visitors today and even hosts occasional performances of Japan’s classic theatrical arts kabuki and bunraku (文楽). After exploring the inner-workings of one of Japan’s few remaining fully-operational kabuki theatres, I felt a grumble in my belly and knew it was time to refuel before heading to my next destination in Shikoku.
Uchiko Theatre. (Image credit: photoAC)
Ten Shrine (上ノ山天神社)
Address: 2974, Uchiko, Uchiko-cho, Kita-gun, Ehime, 791-3301
Nearest station: Uchiko Station (内子駅)
Tel: +81-893-45-0663
Uchiko Theatre (内子座)
Address: 2102, Uchiko, Uchiko-cho, Kita-gun, Ehime, 791-3301
Nearest station: Uchiko Station (内子駅)
Opening hours: 9am–4:30pm
Admission fee: ¥400 (Uchiko Theatre only) / ¥900 (including museum and Kamihaga Residence)
Tel: +81-893-44-2804
A Bite to Eat
The soba restaurant Shimohagatei operates in a renovated 19th-century merchant house and serves a selection of freshly-made soba noodle dishes. Not to be surpassed by its menu, the building of Shimohagatei itself, with its wooden interior and inner Japanese garden, illustrates the rich history of Uchiko that is now enjoying a renaissance thanks to the dedicated efforts of local residents.
A hot bowl of soba noodles. (Image credit: Josh Grengs)
Shimohagatei (下芳我邸)
Address: 1946, Uchiko, Uchiko-cho, Kita-gun, Ehime, 791-3301
Opening hours: 11am–3pm (closed Wednesdays)
Tel: +81-893-44-6171
While still barely a blip on the radar of many travellers in Japan, Uchiko and its many surprises illustrate the secrets and treasures that await the curious visitor to Japan’s ancient countryside. Whether it be traditional merchant houses, classic kabuki theatres, or hidden mystic shrines, Uchiko is a land filled with little discoveries, and I can’t wait to go back.
Getting There
Uchiko is located approximately 40km southwest of Ehime Prefecture’s capital, Matsuyama. To get there, take the JR Yosan Line from Matsuyama Station to reach Uchiko Station approximately 25 minutes away. It’s a 15-minute walk into the town from Uchiko Station.
Header image credit: Josh Grengs
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