A foodie’s guide around the Yamanote Line! (Part 2)
The Yamanote Line is one of the most widely known JR local lines in Tokyo. Otherwise known as the "Circle Line", it is a network that enables passengers to get to major destinations in Tokyo with ease, whether it is the central business district of Tokyo, the electronics/Japanese anime haven of Akihabara, the teenager’s favourite hangout area of Shibuya or the sprawling districts of Shinjuku.
I find it almost impossible not to take the JR Yamanote Line even once whenever I am in Tokyo. Sure, it is awfully crowded during rush hour particularly on this line, but the sheer convenience of being able to access major areas is just much for me to miss. And especially, this line enables to me to get to many of my favourite dining spots throughout the city!
JR Yamanote Line. (Image credit: Pakutaso)
This article is a continuation of my favourite places to eat in Tokyo, and the nearest JR Yamanote Line station for access. To be honest, I was spoilt for choice when writing this article; I just have too many recommendations to write about! Hence I am narrowing down only those that you can access by a few minutes’ walk from selected stations on the ‘Circle Line’. So without further ado, here are a few more of my favourite dining joints!
JR Takadanobaba Station: Watanabe
JR Takadanobaba Station (JR高田馬場駅 Takadanobaba-eki) is in the heart of Takadanobaba neighbourhood within the Shinjuku Ward. Situated between the commercial districts of Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, the station and neighbourhood in overall is particularly known as a student district for one simple reason: its proximity to Waseda University, one of the most prestigious private universities in Japan and also known for their high international student ratio.
Many of the friends from university have fond memories here especially during their student exchange program days. They would reminisce meeting up with their classmates here, and sometimes going for drinking parties at night after hours of cramming in classes. I also make it a habit to come here whenever I can, but unbeknownst to many people, Takadanobaba is also known as one of the major hubs for ramen!
Entrance to Watanabe. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
One of my great discoveries in Takadanobaba is a ramen establishment named Watanabe (渡なべ), which specialises in tonkotsu-gyokai (豚骨魚介), a style that infuses tonkotsu broth with seafood that usually consists of dried sardines. Personally, it is one of my favourite styles of ramen, and when I first heard about it from a ramen blog, I just had to check it out. One thing I must point out: it is not easy to find this place because the entrance (and the restaurant as a whole) is pretty inconspicuous and it is located at one of the many narrow alleys that define neighbourhood of Takadanobaba.
Tonkotsu-gyokai ramen. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
If anyone wants my recommendation for probably the best ramen of its style, then Watanabe is a shoo-in. Everything about this bowl is near perfect: the meat, the broth, the flavoured egg and even the bamboo shoots! It has a profound taste that might not please regular ramen eaters, but for those with discerning palates, then this is worth checking out. Take note that the establishment is not ideal for big groups: it only has a countertop table that are meant for solo diners. But at least it is good to know: it is only a 10-minute walk from JR Takadanobaba Station (Exit 6, to be precise).
Watanabe (渡なべ)
Address: 2-1-4 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku Ward, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Takadanobaba Station (JR高田馬場駅)
Opening hours: 11am–8pm daily
Tel: +81-3-3209-5615
JR Ebisu Station: Shake Shack
Okay, I cheat. This is not a Japanese food establishment. Clearly it is a chain brand from the United States and is one of the few branches in Tokyo. But this article is about my favourite dining places in Tokyo that are near JR Yamanote Line stations, and Shake Shack easily qualifies as one. In my pecking order of favourite things to eat, ramen is at #1 and at #2, it is burgers. And when it comes to burgers, Shake Shack has established itself as one of the most widely known burger chains throughout the world.
Best of all, it has probably the best location of all: right under the JR Ebisu Station (JR恵比寿駅 Ebisu-eki). Located inside the Shibuya Ward, Ebisu is one of the swankiest major districts in Tokyo, boasting Western bars, izakaya joints (Japanese-style bars), and chic restaurants at almost every corner. And for beer lovers, you might be interested to know that Sapporo Breweries’s headquarters and the Museum of Yebisu Beer are located here too!
Shake Shack at JR Ebisu Station. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
I first tried out Shake Shack in Manhattan, New York City in December 2015. It was a memorable experience—I never thought a simple (fattening) dish such as a burger could be so mesmerising. Shake Shack’s unique selling points can be narrowed down to its meticulousness in preparing their menu. They pride themselves in using products that are anti-growth hormone-free, thus maintaining their image of true freshness and high quality food.
Shackburger at Shake Shack. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
Japanese food is great for most parts, but as fellow who craves for something once in a while, I find it a huge relief that Shack Shake is easily within reach. Better yet, it is in one of Tokyo’s major districts, so whenever I meet my friends here, I know that I can always pop right in here for a quick meal. It’s comfort food at its finest, and it is one of the reasons why I love coming to Ebisu!
Shake Shack Ebisu
Address: Ebisu Minami 1-6, Shibuya Ward, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Ebisu Station (JR恵比寿駅)
Opening hours: 10am–10:30pm daily
JR Ikebukuro Station: Kikanbo
Of course, I am going to end my two-part article with ramen!
Ikebukuro is one of the major commercial and entertainment districts on the western side of central Tokyo (alongside Shinjuku and Shibuya). Located in the heart of Toshima Ward, it is one of the main go-to places for shopping because of the iconic SEIBU department store and Sunshine City, and a favourite hangout spot for youngsters. Like Takadanobaba, it is also popular student district because of its proximity to Rikkyo University (also known as Saint Paul’s University), another university akin to Waseda University for its prestige and high international studio ratio.
People who are well-versed with ramen scene in Tokyo would know that, together with Takadanobaba, Ikebukuro is one of the major hubs for ramen. It is one of my habitual go-to districts in Tokyo whenever I am meeting up with friends over drinks (and ramen after that). You can even look up for lists of recommended ramen places in Ikebukuro on the internet, and you will get countless results. I didn’t even know where to start when I first visited Ikebukuro, and that’s when I first heard about a ramen joint named Kikanbo.
Entrance to Kikanbo. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
Interiors of Kikanbo. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
Kikanbo started out as a small ramen joint that specialises in a type of ramen that was unusual back when it first started: spicy miso ramen with Sichuan peppercorn. It is known as karashibi miso (カラシビ味噌), where not only is it spicy, it also gives diners a numbing taste in their mouths that is typical of Sichuan traditional foods. Japanese people are sometimes known for their intolerance towards spicy food, but when Kikanbo opened shop it gathered an unusually huge following. Years later, it even opened branches in Taiwan as its ramen began to attract hordes of loyal fans both local and overseas!
This ramen is not for the faint-hearted. First-time visitors may be turned off by the eatery’s intimidating exteriors that graphically depict drawings of demons (鬼 oni), and demon masks that line above the countertop tables inside. It is meant to be intimidating, as eating something as spicy as this is meant to be a rite of passage for anyone courageous enough to step inside and confront the ‘demon in the bowl’!
Karashibi miso ramen. (Image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang)
One point of relief for those who do not take spicy food well: the level of spiciness and numbness can be adjusted from completely mild to ‘demon level’. I usually order ‘High’ for both spiciness and numbness for my bowl; it is the sweet spot for me! It is always a feast for me to come here; I have faced the demon so often that he does not intimidate me anymore. He has become a familiar face; I would dare say that I have even befriended him. The best thing about Kikanbo is its location: it is only a 10-minute walk from the SEIBU Exit of JR Ikebukuro Station (JR池袋駅 Ikebukuro-eki), and right in the heart of the district’s youth entertainment alley.
Kikanbo (鬼金棒)
Address: 1-13-14 Higashi-Ikebukuro Toshima Ward, Tokyo
Nearest station: JR Ikebukuro Station (JR池袋駅)
Opening hours: 11am–10pm daily
If you ask me to name one of my favourite cities for food, Tokyo is definitely one of them. Not only does it have amazing food almost anywhere in the city, indirectly dining in Tokyo is a breeze because of its amazing train network. JR Yamanote Line is one of the major reasons why I go for my occasional food pilgrimages to Tokyo time and time again, and I hope I can influence others—first-timers and repeated travellers—to try out my recommendations or even discover new ones along the train network. The train line is not just a form of transportation; it’s my ticket to my most coveted hobbies of food hunting.
(INSIDER TIP: for all the above, if you have the JR TOKYO Wide PASS, all the train trips on the Yamanote Line are free!)
JR TOKYO Wide Pass
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass, and where you can use it. (Image credit: JR East)
The JR TOKYO Wide Pass is an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 3 consecutive days. At ¥15,000, you can use it to travel from Tokyo to many other places within the designated areas, such as Nikko, GALA Yuzawa, Karuizawa and more. You can also make seat reservations online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. (Image credit: JR East)
Header image credit: JR East / Nazrul Buang
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