Hokuriku Shinkansen Extension: Covering all four of Fukui’s shinkansen stops in a day
In the final stretch of this series (previously covering the Ishikawa stations of Komatsu and Kaga Onsen) on things to do around the new Hokuriku Shinkansen stations, I pull into Fukui Prefecture. Specifically, the four stations of Awara Onsen (芦原温泉駅), Fukui (福井駅), Echizen Takefu (越前たけふ駅), and Tsuruga (敦賀駅).
Awara Onsen Station: Home to Fukui’s best onsen
The AFLARE tourism exchange center by Awara Onsen Station. (Image credit: Hui Min)
As the name goes, the first stop I make coming from Ishikawa is found nearby Fukui’s most well-known onsen town. Getting to the onsen town itself from Awara Onsen Station requires quite a bit of travelling time. But as I quickly discovered, that doesn’t mean it’s not worth making a quick hop off the shinkansen!
Humans and dinosaurs alike, we all love onsen. (Image credit: Hui Min)
From the Shinkansen gantry exit, dinosaur claw prints (as befitting of Fukui, which I will explain later) lead the way to the connecting entrance of the new tourism exchange facility, AFLARE, where dinosaurs enjoying a soak greet me.
The bubble I catch reveals to me the nearby Echizen Ono Castle (越前大野城), known as the “Castle in the Sky”. (Image credit: Hui Min)
The first area here serves as an interactive sightseeing and cultural information gallery, and I already take to the modern wooden decor, creatively incorporating onsen tubs and buckets.
Even though it’s all in Japanese, it’s still fun admiring the displays, especially the giant tub in the centre, where “catching” digital bubbles with a bucket (by hovering it over the display) reveals a sightseeing recommendation.
Admiring the architecture inside AFLARE. (Image credit: Hui Min)
From the gallery windows, I also get a view of the beautiful architecture of the building’s atrium, with a wooden lattice ceiling.
The dining area and its extensive menu, including seafood and soba. (Image credit: Hui Min)
I also spy a shop in the corner, and quickly make my way downstairs. Keeping up with the onsen aesthetic, this shop is also furnished with noren curtains and other cute props. It combines a dining and souvenir area.
The dining menu looks tempting and includes a wide range of Fukui specialties like kaisendon (海鮮丼) and Echizen soba (越前そば), but if you’re here too early like I was, there are plenty of unique snacks in the shop you could grab for your train journey.
Melon pan and pudding using Awara sweet potatoes. (Image credit: Hui Min)
In particular, sweet potato fans will be keen to know that sweet potatoes are one of Awara’s local specialties, which is why the shop carries over sweet potato treats from the onsen area, like pudding and melon pan!
Since I have some time, however, I walk just a little further out to find my snacks from some neighbourhood shops. First, just 100m to Inori (おむすびいのり), an onigiri store with more variety than your average conbini selection.
Within the unassuming exterior is an extensive onigiri menu. (Image credit: Hui Min)
If you’re a mentaiko fan like me, you’ll be excited to know that there are as many as four mentaiko options. I decided to go for the full indulgence of the “mentaiko mayo cream cheese” (明太子マヨクリームチーズ). The best part is that each order is prepared on the spot, with warm freshly-steamed rice.
Enjoying my warm and generously-stuffed onigiri by the river. (Image credit: Hui Min)
If you have time to take a further 10-minute stroll by the river just behind, I also suggest checking out the miso shop Aosei (青清).
Yummy miso soft serve at Aosei. (Image credit: Hui Min)
Here, you get to admire not just the traditional home of this century-old business, but also some really good miso soft serve.
AFLARE
Address: 1-12-18 Harumiya, Awara, Fukui 919-0632
Access: Next to Awara Onsen Station
Opening hours: 07:00–22:00 (Souvenir shop: 08:00–21:30)
Inori (おむすびいのり)
Address: 1 Chome-9-41 Harumiya, Awara, Fukui 919-0632
Access: 2-minute walk from Awara Onsen Station
Opening hours: 11:00 (08:00 on weekends)–14:00 (Closed on Mondays)
Aosei (青清)
Address: 1 Chome-1-17 Hananomori, Awara, Fukui 919-0633
Access: 13-minute walk from Awara Onsen Station
Opening hours: 09:00–19:00
Fukui Station: Of crabs and dinosaurs
A crab-eating dinosaur displayed on the terrace in front of Fukui Station—a hint of what I will be talking about here. (Image credit: Hui Min)
As the prefecture’s namesake station, the next stop needs little introduction. I will confess first that there’s way more to do here than I can cover in detail. Just know that if you have visited before the Shinkansen extension, you’ll probably be stunned as I was, by just how much more is happening around Fukui Station now.
CURU-F, Fukui Station’s new in-station shopping street. (Image credit: Hui Min)
For instance, the new station shopping street, CURU-F, is filled with shop booths offering local specialties from sweet to savoury. I won’t list the full variety, but instead focus on one Fukui specialty that I think would be of interest to many: crabs!
(Image credit: Hui Min)
Crab lovers, rejoice, for you will be blessed with this crustacean in the form of snacks like senbei or even in a luxurious bento.
Enjoy fresh crab at this sushi bar, or take away a ready-to-eat pack for an indulgent train snack. (Image credit: Hui Min)
But if you want your crabs fresh, then continue further to the restaurant street.
Enjoy street-food style atmosphere, or the quieter ambience of a music cafe-restaurant, both in food hall MINIE. (Image credit: Hui Min)
For more dining options, you can also walk out to food hall MINIE.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
If you’re around at night, there’s even the charming little Fukui Yatai Village (ふくい屋台村) hidden right below the tracks on the other side of the station.
But enough about the food. The other Fukui specialty to note, which will be evident once you view the station facade, is dinosaurs!
(Image credit: Hui Min)
That’s because Fukui is home to the largest dinosaur fossil excavation site, and also the largest dinosaur museum in Japan. While the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum (福井県立恐竜博物館) is located a distance in Katsuyama City (勝山市), you can still get those dinosaur pics all around Fukui Station.
The many moving dinosaur figures include a T-Rex. (Image credit: Hui Min)
For more natural, living sights though, I recommend taking a little stroll out to the Yokokan Garden (養浩館庭園). The tranquil garden recreates the residence of the former Fukui domain lords, centered around a lovely pond.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
There’s also a teahouse with scenic views of the garden, and where public tea ceremony events are held for certain periods in spring and autumn. I can imagine it being gorgeous in autumn, with the thick foliage of maple trees all around.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
Given the short walk from the station and the compact size of the garden, it’s definitely a worthy visit even if you’re just dropping by Fukui for a short while.
CURU-F
Address: 1-1-25 Chuo, Fukui, 910-0006
Access: Inside Fukui Station
Opening hours: 08:30–20:00 (souvenir shops), 11:00-21:00 (restaurants)
MINIE
Address: 1-3-5 Chuo, Fukui, 910-0006
Access: 3-minute walk from Fukui Station
Opening hours: 11:00–23:00
Fukui Yatai Village (ふくい屋台村)
Address: 2-3411 Ote, Fukui, 910-0005
Access: 3-minute walk from Fukui Station
Opening hours: 17:00–24:00 (Varies from store to store)
Yokokan Garden (養浩館庭園)
Address: 3-11-36 Hoei, Fukui, 910-0004
Access: 12-minute walk from Fukui Station
Opening hours: 09:00–19:00 (Close 17:00 Nov-Feb)
Admission: ¥220
Echizen Takefu Station: The purrfect respite
Echizen-Takefu Station with a roadside station next door. (Image credit: Hui Min)
Moving along, I next arrive at the station of the small town of Takefu. Even in this rural part of Fukui however, I find more to do than expected!
Try the Fukui specialties of both Echizen soba and sauce katsudon (ソースかつ丼)! For dessert, you can also try the soba soft serve and some dorayaki. (Image credit: Hui Min)
For one, there’s a roadside station (道の駅 michi-no-eki) right next to the station. These are local produce stores found throughout Japan, including souvenirs and usually a small eatery or two. The one here has not just a soba stand and seafood restaurant, both offering Fukui specialties, but also a small sweets cafe.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
In the shopping area, gifts (or snacks for yourself) you can bring home include cute dinosaur-themed pastries.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
Again, there’s more than just food and shopping here. Just across from the station is the hidden viewpoint of Mount Iwauchi (岩内山), which takes no more than a 10-minute climb up a well-maintained path. Through a tranquil bamboo grove at that!
They even thoughtfully put up a Shinkansen timetable for those who want to catch it passing through. (Image credit: Hui Min)
What this easy trek rewards you with is panoramic views of the station, to the backdrop of the mountains and fields beyond.
The bike port right next to the station. Psst…do look out for the Pokemon manhole nearby too, which features a Dragonite, Fukui’s official Pokemon ambassador! (Image credit: Hui Min)
For cat lovers, there is one more spot I would recommend. However, considering the distance (about a 30-minute walk), I would suggest renting one of the share cycles available at the station (requires application download, and a phone number and credit card usable in Japan).
Since the bikes are electric-powered, it will shorten the journey to no more than 15 minutes, and with minimal effort too.
I only managed to catch a photo of one real-life cat here, but spot the other three (figurine) cats! (Image credit: Hui Min)
The destination of interest is the Gotanjoji Temple (御誕生寺), also known as the “Cat Temple” for the 20 to 30 cats on site, cared for by their monks.
Even watching the cats from a distance on the serene temple grounds was therapeutic. (Image credit: Hui Min)
That said, there weren’t that many cats in the open when I visited, perhaps only about six or seven. Even then, it was a unique tranquil spot to enjoy some animal therapy, and meet other local cat lovers.
Roadside Station Echizen-Takefu (道の駅 越前たけふ)
Address: 38-5-1 Oyacho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0042
Access: Next to Echizen-Takefu Station
Opening hours: 09:00–18:00 (Varying times for restaurants)
Mount Iwauchi (岩内山)
Address: Oyacho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0042
Access: 5-minute walk from Echizen-Takefu Station
Gotanjoji (御誕生寺)
Address: 32-1-1 Shodencho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0043
Access: 30-minute walk from Echizen-Takefu Station
Tsuruga Station: Hokuriku Shinkansen’s terminal station
Tsuruga Station. (Image credit: Hui Min)
Lastly, we arrive at the terminal station of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, in the port city of Tsuruga. Do note that for this station, it is advisable to exit from the West Exit (not the one right by the Shinkansen concourse), since that’s where the town area is.
A lawn separates the two blocks of otta. (Image credit: Hui Min)
As you may have noticed a pattern by now, here too is a station-front gourmet, shopping, and community area, TSURUGA POLT SQUARE otta, consisting of two blocks of shops.
(Image credit: Hui Min)
In the block closer to the station, are again restaurants and shops, but the main highlight for me here is the book store, TSURUGA BOOKS & COMMONS. With the maze-like bookshelves creating an aesthetic and cosy interior, and ample sitting space, it’s just the sort of place I’d linger at to take a breather in the middle of travelling, or to idle in comfort while waiting for the next train. Although I didn’t get to try it this time, there’s also a cafe space with really good-looking matcha drinks and parfaits.
Dine in at one of the seafood restaurants, or take away a crab or grilled saba bento. (Image credit: Hui Min)
The other block consists of restaurants, mostly seafood-based, from unagi hitsumabushi to kaisendon. And even a takeaway outlet, for yet another decadent crab bento option!
Kehi Shrine. (Image credit: Hui Min)
As for sightseeing, my lack of time this visit (after trying to cover four stations in one day) limited me to Kehi Jingu Shrine (氣比神宮), just 15 minutes on foot from the station.
Kehi Jingu’s torii gate. (Image credit: Hui Min)
This shrine holds great significance as the former chief guardian shrine of today’s Hokuriku Region. Notably, its stunning red gate is also known as one of Japan’s “Three Greatest Wooden Torii Gates”, alongside that of Hiroshima’s Itsukushima Shrine and Nara’s Kasuga-taisha Shrine.
Kehi Jingu's shrine grounds. (Image credit: Hui Min)
The shrine compound itself is not very big, but I greatly enjoyed the atmosphere and rich greenery.
Finally having the time to grab a crab bento right before hopping on the Shinkansen, in a cute crab-shaped box (Image credit: Hui Min)
One last tip before hopping back on the Shinkansen: if you haven’t had your crab bento fix yet (or have space for another), do look out for the ekiben (駅弁) vending machine right at the Shinkansen platform! An affordable and simple yet satisfying bowl of crab-flavoured rice, topped with flavourful chunks of crab meat.
TSURUGA BOOKS & COMMONS
Address: 1-5-32 Kanawacho, Tsuruga, Fukui 914-0055
Access: Next to Tsuruga Station
Opening hours: 10:00–20:00
Kehi Jingu Shrine (氣比神宮)
Address: 11-68 Akebonocho, Tsuruga, Fukui 914-0075
Access: 15-minute walk from Tsuruga Station
Opening hours: 05:00–17:00 (06:00–17:00 in Oct–Mar)
All four stations in Fukui: Journey further on share-bikes!
The share-bikes available at Awara Onsen Station (left) and Fukui Station (right). (Image credit: Hui Min)
From my experience this time, one important point I'd like to share is that attempting to visit all four stations in one day can be quite hectic. It would be more practical to pick just one or two stations, or stay the night, especially if you plan to explore attractions further out. Another efficient option to make your explorations more efficient is to use share-bikes!
Yes, even though I have only mentioned the ones at Echizen-Takefu in this article, all four stations actually have share-cycle ports, or in the case of Awara Onsen Station, a rental service that you can inquire about at the tourist information office. The share cycle service of the other three stations use the same docomo bike share app, in fact, the same one previously mentioned for Komatsu Station!
So it’s easy to use it at any of the stations once you’ve registered on the app. For Fukui City and Tsuruga City, you can also purchase a 1-day pass online or from a service counter.
I look forward to using it next time to visit Awara Onsen and the bay area of Tsuruga, being a port town. Especially the Kehi no Matsubara (気比の松原) pine beach, considered one of Japan’s “three most beautiful pine parks”. For now, these are my quick recommendations, and I definitely believe it’s worth stopping by at least one of these stations in Fukui if you’re passing through.
Be it for crabs, or a quick dose of nature therapy.
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