Ao-mazing spring in Aomori: A 2-day itinerary around Tsugaru
Do you know where the Tsugaru (津軽) region is? Tsugaru is an old name for the western part of Aomori Prefecture (青森県 Aomori-ken), mainland Japan’s northernmost prefecture. Most people visit Aomori City on their first trip to this prefecture, but the Tsugaru region is a scenic gem filled with rich history and beautiful nature, and definitely worth a visit as well!
Map of places visited on this itinerary. (Image credit: Google Maps)
In this article, I will introduce a short 2-day itinerary around Tsugaru for the spring season, and I hope that you will check it out the next time you head to Aomori or Tohoku! Aomori City may be the present-day capital of Aomori Prefecture, but before that, for a long time Hirosaki City was the economic and cultural capital of the Tsugaru region, and is where we will be basing our itinerary from.
Day 1: A short rail trip on Tsugaru’s local lines
- 8:48–9:20 Hirosaki → Mutsu-Tsuruda on the Resort Shirakami
The Resort Shirakami runs between Akita and Aomori. (Image credit: JR East)
On the first day, let’s start off with a ride on a special train, the Resort Shirakami. This train was one of the first Joyful Trains to be launched, and offers breathtaking views of both the verdant green fields and stunning sapphire sea as it traverses the route between Aomori and Akita, mainly on the JR Gono Line (五能線).
View of flowering apple trees from onboard the Resort Shirakami. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Today, we’ll ride a short section from Hirosaki Station (弘前駅) to Mutsu-Tsuruda Station (陸奥鶴田駅), a section that offers fantastic views of apple trees and Mount Iwaki (岩木山 Iwaki-san)—a local mountain symbolic of Aomori Prefecture.
① Tsuru no Mai Bridge and Fujimiko Park
Walking across the Tsuru no Mai Bridge. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
From Mutsu-Tsuruda Station, we’ll explore a scenic park and beautiful wooden bridge, the Tsuru no Mai Bridge (鶴の舞橋 Tsuru-no-mai-hashi). A 10-minute taxi ride from the station will bring us to the picturesque Fujimiko Park (富士見湖パーク), a lakeside park offering beautiful views of Mount Iwaki, one of Aomori Prefecture’s most beloved mountains. The name “Fujimiko” means “lake for viewing Fuji”, and the park is so named because Mount Iwaki is also known as Tsugaru-Fuji (津軽富士) for its resemblance to Mount Fuji.
Tsuru no Mai Bridge’s three arches, and Mount Iwaki in the background. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Across the tranquil Tsugaru-Fujimi Lake is an amazing 300-metre long wooden bridge, the Tsuru no Mai Bridge. “Tsuru” means “crane” in Japanese, a bird associated with longevity, and “Tsuru no Mai” means “dance of the cranes”. The bridge’s three elegant arches are said to resemble flying cranes blessing visitors with longevity.
Another play on words, “naga iki” (長生き longevity) and “nagai ki” (長い木 long wood) sound similar in Japanese, so it is believed that this long wooden bridge will bring longevity to those who cross it. The bridge is made of Japanese cypress (ヒバ hiba), a type of high-quality wood that Aomori is famous for.
After enjoying the mesmerising scenery at the park and from the bridge, take a taxi back to Mutsu-Tsuruda Station and let’s continue on to our next sightseeing spot, a very unique train station.
Tsuru no Mai Bridge (鶴の舞橋)
Address: 81-150 Mawarizeki Osawa, Tsuruta, Aomori 038-3542
Access: 10-minute taxi ride from JR Mutsu-Tsuruda Station (陸奥鶴田駅)
Admission fee: Free
② Shakochan
- 10:58–11:14 Mutsu-Tsuruda → Kizukuri
Shakochan adorns the Kizukuri Station building. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
From Mutsu-Tsuruda Station, take the Gono Line to Kizukuri Station (木造駅). Once you exit the station, take a good look at the station building, and say hello to Shakochan (しゃこちゃん)!
Shakochan is built in the image of shakōki-dōgu (遮光器土偶), clay figurines from Japan’s prehistoric Jomon Era (13,000–400 BC) that were buried with the dead. Shakochan’s design was based particularly on a shakōki-dōgu found at the nearby Kamegaoka Ruins, an archaeological site where shakōki-dōgu and other prehistoric artefacts have been unearthed.
Around Kizukuri Station. (Image credit: photoAC and JR East / Kobori)
Something special about Shakochan: its eyes light up when trains approach the station, so keep an eye out for this. Shakochan was recently upgraded in the spring of 2020, and its LED eyes can now flash in seven different colours. You can also see Mount Iwaki from the station, and outside the station you will find toilets housed in a unique structure that has been decorated as a hut from the Jomon Era.
If you’d like to find out more about the Jomon Era and see some of the archaeological artefacts unearthed from the Kamegaoka Ruins, you can check out the Tsugaru City Jomon Dwelling Museum Calco (つがる市縄文住居展示資料館カルコ), which is a 15-minute walk from Kizukuri Station.
Tsugaru City Jomon Dwelling Museum Calco (つがる市縄文住居展示資料館カルコ)
Address: 59-1 Kizukuriwakamidori, Tsugaru-shi, Aomori 038-3138
Access: 15-minute walk from JR Kizukuri Station (木造駅)
Opening hours: 9:00–16:00 (closed on Mondays, days after Public Holidays, and 29 December–3 January)
Admission fee: ¥200/adult
③ Tachineputa no Yakata
- 12:02–12:09 Kizukuri → Goshogawara
Say farewell to Shakochan and Kizukuri Station, hop back on a local train on the Gono Line, and head over to Goshogawara Station (五所川原駅). Did you know that there are over 40 Nebuta Festivals in Aomori? The three most well-known ones are the Aomori Nebuta Festival, the Hirosaki Neputa Festival, and the Goshogawara Tachineputa Festival.
Tachineputa floats can be up to seven-storeys high. (Image credit: Aomori Prefecture)
Held annually on 4–8 August, the Goshogawara Tachineputa Festival (五所川原立佞武多祭り Goshogawara Tachineputa Matsuri) is known for its large and tall tachineputa floats, which can be up to a whopping 23m or seven storeys-high—much taller than the floats of the Aomori and Hirosaki Festivals. Tachi (立ち) means “standing”, and these floats are certainly striking when standing at their towering heights.
Enjoy tachineputa year-round at the Tachineputa no Yakata. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
If you are unable to visit Goshogawara during the festival period, you can still view the magnificent tachineputa floats year-round at the Tachineputa no Yakata (立佞武多の館), a museum that’s only a 5-minute walk from Goshogawara Station.
Inside the museum, actual tachineputa floats from previous years’ festivals are on display. The museum allows visitors to get good looks at the large tachineputa floats, as the spiral walkways span several floors for visitors to enjoy various angles of the floats. There are also videos explaining the history of the festival and showing previous years’ parades.
Tachineputa no Yakata (立佞武多の館)
Address: 506-10 Omachi, Goshogawara-shi, Aomori 037-0063
Access: 5-minute walk from JR Goshogawara Station (五所川原駅)
Opening hours: 9:00–17:00
Admission fee: ¥650/adult
- 13:30–13:51 Tsugaru Goshogawara → Kanagi
JR Goshogawara Station and Tsugaru Goshogawra Station. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
After checking out the awe-inspiring Tachineputa floats, let’s take a ride on the Tsugaru Railway Line (津軽鉄道線 Tsugaru-tetsudō-sen). The Tohoku region is filled with many local railway lines, and Tsugaru Railway Line is one of them. Starting at Tsugaru Goshogawara Station (津軽五所川原駅), which is right next to JR Goshogawara Station, the Tsugaru Railway Line is a 21km-long railway line that stretches northward. The Tsugaru Railway Line is dotted with many historic buildings, so let’s check some of them out.
④ Osamu Dazai Memorial Hall (Shayokan)
Exterior of Shayokan. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
From Goshogawara Station, let’s take a train to Kanagi Station (金木駅), where we will find the first building we’ll check out. A 10-minute walk from Kanagi Station, the Osamu Dazai Memorial Hall (太宰治記念館「斜陽館」 Dazai Osamu Kinenkan 「Shayōkan」)—also known as Shayokan—is an Important Cultural Property. Built in 1907, this house is now a museum dedicated to the author Dazai Osamu, who was born in this very building. The magnificent two-storey wooden building is made with Japanese cypress, the same type of wood that the Tsuru no Mai Bridge is made of.
Exploring Shayokan. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Although the building has a traditional Japanese exterior, its interiors and furnishings are a blend of Western and Eastern styles, which make an interesting mix. If you are a fan of architecture and history, or wish to learn more about Dazai duing his childhood years, do check it out!
Osamu Dazai Memorial Hall (太宰治記念館「斜陽館」)
Address: 412-1 Asahiyama, Kanagi-machi, Goshogawara-shi, Aomori 037-0202
Access: 10-minute walk from Tsugaru Railway Kanagi Station (金木駅)
Opening hours: 09:00–17:00 (October–March) / 09:00–17:30 (April–September) (Closed on 29 December)
Admission fee: ¥600/adult
⑤ Cafe Ekisha
The former Ashinokōen Station building has been turned into a café. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
As trains on the Tsugaru Railway Line are not very frequent, let’s take a stroll to our next stop, the former Ashinokōen Station building (旧芦野公園駅本屋), which has now been converted into a quaint café. Located nearby the new Ashinokōen Station, the former station building has been transformed into a red-roofed retro café—Cafe Ekisha. Must try items at this café are the horse meat buns and horse meat curry (horse meat is a famous local product of Kanagi), and the special blend of Mancha coffee, which is believed to have been a favourite of Dazai’s.
From the inside of the café, you can spend hours gazing at the passing trains and the beautiful scenery of Ashino Park outside, while sipping on coffee and having a light meal or enjoying desserts.
Cafe Ekisha (赤い屋根の喫茶店「駅舎」)
Address: 84-171 Ashino, Kanagi-machi, Goshogawara-shi, Aomori 037-0202
Access: Right outside Ashinokōen Station (芦野公園駅)
Opening hours: 10:00–17:00 (closed on Wednesdays)
⑥ Ashino Park
Lush greenery at Ashino Park in spring. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Don’t just enjoy looking at the scenery, go out and immerse yourself in it! Ashino Park (芦野公園 Ashino Kōen) is located right outside Ashinokōen Station, and is most famous during the cherry blossom period, when 1,500 sakura trees bloom on both sides of the railway track, creating an enchanting sakura tunnel. After the flowers have bloomed and new leaves start to emerge, the sight of bright green trees is still a fresh and invigorating one, and late spring is a great time to come, take a stroll, and enjoy the scenery.
Ashino Park (芦野公園)
Address: 84-170 Ashino, Kanagi-machi, Goshogawara-shi, Aomori 037-0202
Access: Right outside Ashinokōen Station (芦野公園駅)
Admission fee: Free
- 17:19–17:45 Ashinokōen → Goshogawara
- 18:15–18:54 Goshogawara → Hirosaki
Train approaching the platform at Ashinokōen Station. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Finally, depart Ashinokōen Station return back to Hirosaki in the evening. Hirosaki City is one of the Tohoku region's most culturally rich cities, and is castle town that used to be the cultural and economic capital of Tsugaru. Have a good night’s rest, and we’ll spend the next day exploring the best of what Hirosaki has to offer!
Train timings for Day 1. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Day 2: The best of Hirosaki City
Map of places visited on Day 2.
⑦ Hirosaki Apple Park
- 9:46–10:03 Hirosaki Station → Hirosaki Apple Park (bus)
On the next day, let’s first check out Hirosaki’s most famous produce: apples! From Hirosaki Station, take the Tamenobu Bus, which will bring you to Hirosaki Apple Park in about 15–20 minutes.
Flowering apple trees and Mount Iwaki in the background. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Did you know? Aomori Prefecture is the top producer of apples in Japan, and within it, Hirosaki City produces the most apples. If you visit Hirosaki between early August to mid-November, you can go apple-picking, but if you visit in early to mid-May, you’ll be blessed with the transient sight of delicate white apple flowers!
Beautiful and plentiful apple flowers. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
Have you seen apple flowers before? Hirosaki Apple Park (弘前りんご公園 Hirosaki ringo kōen) has around 2,300 apple trees, and during spring, you can enjoy the view of flowering apple trees with a stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Mount Iwaki in the distance. Compared to cherry blossom trees, apple trees are much shorter, but their flowers are very dense—so many flowers bloom on one branch!
Dine on apple-infused cuisine or buy back some apple-flavoured souvenirs. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
After taking a walk around the vast park's apple orchard, take a break at the souvenir shop, where you can purchase a huge variety of apple products. There's also a small cafe inside, Ringo no Ie (りんごの家), where you can grab light meals or dessert. Some unique offerings include apple-infused dishes like apple curry, apple ramen, or apple meat cutlets, as well as desserts like apple parfait, apple shake, apple cream puff, and an assortment of apple juices. If you love apples, do check it out!
If you’d like to know more about the story of Hirosaki and its apples, check out the movie Kiseki no Ringo (奇跡のリンゴ Miracle Apples), which is based on the tale of one farmer’s quest to cultivate chemical-free apples in Hirosaki.
Hirosaki Apple Park (弘前りんご公園)
Address: 125 Terasawa, Shimizutomita, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori 036-8262
Access: From JR Hirosaki Station (弘前駅), take the Tamenobu bus (ためのぶ号) (¥200) and get off at Hirosaki Apple Park. (Bus only operates from April to November)
Opening hours: All day (Ringo no Ie Cafe is open from 10:00–15:00)
Admission fee: Free
⑧ Hirosaki Park and Hirosaki Castle
- 12:45–12:52 Hirosaki Apple Park → Hirosaki Castle (bus)
Hirosaki Park enveloped in greenery in spring. (Image credit: JR East / Kobori)
From Hirosaki Apple Park, take the Tamenobu Bus to Hirosaki Park (弘前公園 Hirosaki kōen), a must-visit while in Hirosaki. When you mention Hirosaki, one of the images that comes to mind is the cherry blossoms (桜 sakura) around Hirosaki Castle. Something unique about the sakura trees here is that techniques taken from apple cultivation have been adapted to grow denser and more beautiful sakura trees! The view of the 2,600 sakura trees at Hirosaki Park is one of best in the entire country. However, the park is also stunning in other times of the year, especially right after the cherry blossom season.
Cherry blossom trees along the Hirosaki Castle’s Western Moat while the flowers bloom (top) and after the flowers have bloomed (bottom). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh and JR East / Kobori)
After the sakura flowers finish blooming, green leaves start to sprout on the trees, and when you visit in May–June, you’ll be blessed with the sight of fresh and verdant greenery! It’s refreshing to walk through the park, with the blue skies perfectly complementing the new bright green leaves.
Hirosaki Park (弘前公園)
Address: 1 Shimoshirogane-cho, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori 036-8356
Access: Hirosaki Park’s Otemon Gate is a 5-minute walk from the the Shiyakushomae Bus Stop, which can be reached by the Tamenobu Bus from Hirosaki Apple Park, or the Dotemachi Loop bus from JR Hirosaki Station (弘前駅).
⑨ Tsugaru-han Neputa Village
The Hirosaki Neputa Festival features fan-shaped floats. (Image credit: Aomori Prefecture)
As mentioned earlier, Hirosaki is home to one of the top three Nebuta Festivals in Aomori Prefecture—the Hirosaki Neputa Festival (弘前ねぷた祭りHirosaki Neputa Matsuri). The Hirosaki Neputa Festival is also the largest festival in the Tsugaru region. Unlike the towering tachineputa floats of Goshogawara, Hirosaki’s neputa floats are mostly fan-shaped (扇型 о̄gigata), with the designs painted on the surfaces.
Tsugaru-han Neputa Village. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
If you cannot make it to Hirosaki during the festival dates (1–7 August annually), there is also a facility where you can view previous years’ floats, see videos of past festivals and even try out taiko drum beating. Located near the northern entrance of Hirosaki Park, the Tsugaru-han Neputa Village (津軽藩ねぷた村 Tsugaruhan Neputamura) showcases and lets visitors experience a large array of Tsugaru culture, including neputa floats.
The culturally-rich Tsugaru region is well-known for shamisen (三味線), a traditional Japanese string instrument, and the facility has shamisen performances about once per hour for visitors to enjoy. If you have time, you can also try your hand at a variety of Tsugaru cultural crafts like kite-painting, making mini neputa fan stands, Tsugaru pottery, Tsugaru lacquerware, and other activities at the Tsugaru-han Neputa Village.
Tsugaru-han Neputa Village (津軽藩ねぷた村)
Address: 61 Kamenoko-cho, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori 036-8332
Access: 30-minute walk from JR Hirosaki Station, or take a 15-minute bus ride from Hirosaki Station to the Tsugaruhan Neputamura Bus Stop.
Opening hours: 9:00–17:00
Admission fee: ¥550/adult
⑩ Western-style buildings walk
Due to its long history, Hirosaki is rich in tradition and culture. Other than its famous Japanese-style castle, Hirosaki also has many Western-style buildings (洋館 yōkan) that were built in the late 19th century, when the city invited missionaries to come teach English. Many of these buildings are near Hirosaki Park and within walking distance of each other, so let’s take a short walk to explore five of them.
Hirosaki Catholic Church
Hirosaki Catholic Church. (Image credit: 弘前観光コンベンション協会 and Aomori Prefecture)
A 10-minute walk from the Tsugaru-han Neputa Village, the Hirosaki Catholic Church (カトリック弘前教会 Katorikku Hirosaki Kyо̄kai) was built in 1910, and features Romanesque architecture and a Gothic-style altar, something rare in Japan. Like many Catholic churches in Japan, it also has beautiful stained glass windows, which depict scenes of Hirosaki, like apples, Mount Iwaki, and shamisen.
Aomori Bank Memorial Hall
Aomori Bank Memorial Hall. (Image credit: Aomori Prefecture)
From the Hirosaki Catholic Church, a 10-minute walk will bring you to the Aomori Bank Memorial Hall (青森銀行記念館 Aomori Ginkо̄ Kinenkan). Built in 1904 in a Renaissance style, this building formerly served as the main branch of the 59th National Bank, but is now a museum that is open to the public.
Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence
Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence. (Image credit: Aomori Prefecture)
Just a short 3-minute walk from the Aomori Bank Memorial Hall is the Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence (旧東奥義塾外人教師館 Kyū Tо̄-о̄ Gijuku Gaijin Kyо̄shikan). Dating back to 1900, as its name suggests the Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence was initially built as a residence for missionaries who came to teach at To-o Gijuku, a private school in Aomori.
The school was eventually relocated, but the residence building remained, and ownership eventually went to Hirosaki City. Exhibits and furniture from the old days are displayed inside the building, and visitors can get a glimpse of how foreign missionaries lived in the past. On the first floor, there is a café.
Former Hirosaki Library
Former Hirosaki Library. (Image credit: 弘前観光コンベンション協会)
Right next to the Former To-o Gijuku Missionary Residence is the Former Hirosaki Library (旧弘前市立図書館 Kyū Hirosaki Shiritsu Toshokan), a beautiful three-storey building that incorporates both Western and Japanese architectural styles. While the building’s exterior was fashioned in a Renaissance style with octagonal towers, the interior features Japanese-style construction methods.
Behind the library and missionary residence, you’ll find a cluster of miniature buildings, which are 1/10 size replicas of many of the Western-style buildings in Hirosaki.
Fujita Memorial Garden
Fujita Memorial Garden. (Image credit: 弘前観光コンベンション協会)
Finally, our last stop for the Western-style buildings walk is the Fujita Memorial Garden (藤田記念庭園 Fujita Kinen Teien), which is a 7-minute walk from the Former Hirosaki Library. Spanning across 2 hectares, it features a Japanese-style garden juxtaposed with a Western-style building, and was built in 1919 by Fujita Kenichi, the first president of the Japan Chamber of Commerce and Industry (JCCI).
The large garden overlooks Mount Iwaki, and in a corner of the garden grounds is a charming café, where we can take a break and enjoy one of Hirosaki’s specialty desserts: apple pie.
⑪ Apple pie
After a long day of walking, let’s take a break and enjoy a special dessert that Hirosaki is known for: apple pie! Being Japan’s top producer of apples, Hirosaki has no shortage of apples, and the city has dozens of shops selling freshly baked apple pies.
Enjoy apple pie at the Taisho Roman Tea Room. (Image credit: 弘前観光コンベンション協会)
One of the most unique places to enjoy apple pie is the Taisho Roman Tea Room (大正浪漫喫茶室Taishō Roman Kissashitsu) located in a corner of the Fujita Memorial Garden. With its Western-style architecture and tall windows overlooking the garden, this café is a fantastic place to take a break after a day of walking. A slice of warm apple pie with large apple chunks, a hint of cinnamon, flaky crust, and a soothing cup of tea served in a beautifully designed cup…what a wonderful way to spend an afternoon!
Taisho Roman Tea Room (大正浪漫喫茶室)
Address: 8-1 Kamishirogane-cho, Hirosaki-shi, Aomori 036-8207
Access: Taisho Roman Tea Room is a 5-minute walk from the Shiyakushomae Bus Stop, which can be reached by a 20-minute bus ride from JR Hirosaki Station (弘前駅).
Opening hours: 9:30–16:30
Hirosaki has dozens of shops serving apple pie. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa and Japanmase)
If you want to have even more apple pie, guess what? The local tourism office has made an apple pie guide map pamphlet, which highlights over 40 shops around Hirosaki that sell apple pie. In addition to photos and prices, it even ranks the sweetness, sourness, and cinnamon flavour of the apple pies, so that you can search for something that suits your preferences.
Getting there
The amazing Tsugaru region is rich in gorgeous scenery and historic buildings, and definitely worth a visit the next time you head to Aomori. Hirosaki, the gateway to Tsugaru, is only a 40-minute train ride on the Ou Main Line from Shin-Aomori Station, where you can take the bullet train to other major cities around Tohoku. Hirosaki is also just a 45-minute train ride on the Ou Main Line from Aomori, the capital of Aomori Prefecture.
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) and usage area. (Image credit: JR East)
If you are visiting Tsugaru, Aomori, and the Tohoku region, check out the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area), an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days. At only ¥30,000, it costs less than a round-trip between Tokyo and Hirosaki (~¥36,000). You can also make seat reservations for bullet trains, some limited express trains and Joyful Trains online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. (Image credit: JR East)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) can be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass. After exploring Aomori, you can also use the pass to visit the nearby prefectures of Akita, Iwate, and more.
Train timings in this article are correct as of May 2022, but are subject to change at the discretion of the railway companies. Do always check the latest train timetables before embarking on your journey. The Tsugaru Railway Line is not covered by the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area).
Header image credit: Aomori Prefecture
Related Articles
Carissa Loh
Latest Topics
