Relax by the riverside with kawadoko in Kyoto

Kawadoko (川床, riverside dining) is one of those quintessentially Kyoto traditions that must be experienced firsthand in the ancient capital to be truly appreciated. Each summer, restaurants and inns along the Kamogawa, Kibune, and Kiyotaki rivers open their riverside terraces to guests looking to relax and enjoy a delectable meal next to the cool, gentle currents of the rivers’ waters. While all are located in Kyoto, each of these sites offers their own unique take on kawadoko dining. Discover which location below best meets your travel needs.

(Image credit: photoAC)

Nestled in the mountains north of Kyoto city, Kibune (貴船) is one of Japan’s most sought-after places for experiencing kawadoko. Home to the venerated Kifune Shrine (貴船神社, Kifune-jinja), Kibune is a popular destination year-round. However, its kawadoko riverside terraces are possibly the premier highlight of this serene mountain town. Built directly over the water, the terraces allow guests to dip their toes in the gently flowing stream as they enjoy traditional kaiseki cuisine at one of the many restaurants and inns lining the Kibune River. Kibune is a must for anyone looking to be transported to a simpler time of Japanese tradition and beauty.

Directions: To reach Kibune from JR Kyoto Station, take the Karasuma Subway Line to Kokusaikaikan Station and transfer to Kyoto City Bus Route 52. Get off at Kibuneguchi Bus Stop and take Kyoto City Bus Route 33 from Kibuneguchi Station until you arrive at Kibune Bus Stop. It’s a 5-minute walk into town.

Where to start: The Japanese inn Kibune Nakayoshi offers reasonable-priced lunch courses during the summer kawadoko season. With terraces built directly on top of the river, this is a great place to enjoy an authentic kawadoko dining experience.

Kibune Nakayoshi (貴船 仲よし)
Address: 71, Kuramakibunecho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 601-1112
Opening hours: 11am - 9pm (kawadoko is open May through September)
Tel: +81-75-741-2000

(Image credit: photoAC)

Another hidden gem among Kyoto’s various kawadoko locations is Takao’s Kiyotaki River (清滝川, Kiyotakigawa). The river and its surrounding scenery present a picturesque setting for savoring a carefully prepared Japanese meal at the cool water’s edge. Kiyotaki is more rugged than its Kamogawa and Kibune cousins, but it is this contrast that gives Takao and the Kiyotaki River their true appeal. While a bit harder to reach than Kibune or Kamogawa, Kiyotaki and its pristine natural landscape offer an experience far removed from the bustling crowds of Japan’s major tourist destinations. If you’re lucky and visit in June, you may just get to see some fireflies as twilight sets in as well.

Directions: From JR Kyoto Station take the JR Sagano Line and get off at Hanazono Station. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride from the station. Or, take JR Bus from Kyoto Station’s Karasumua-guchi Exit and get off at Makinoo Bus Stop.

Where to start: For a fully-immersive experience in the aesthetic and culinary traditions of Japan, stay at Kinsuitei and discover the tastes, sights, and sounds of this ancient archipelago. While a bit pricier than a standard lunch course, you are guaranteed to leave with memories that will last a lifetime.

Takao Kinsutei (高雄 錦水亭)
Address: 40, Tonohatacho Umegahata, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8293
Opening hours: 11am–4pm for reception (kawadoko is open May through September)
Tel: +81-75-861-0216

(Image credit: photoAC)

Kamogawa (鴨川) is by far the most famous site of the three locations for experiencing kawadoko. The very name “Kyoto” conjures up images of this river and the many terraces lining its waters. Not only is Kamogawa the most recognizable location for kawadoko, it also offers the widest variety of restaurants and shops to select from. In addition to traditional kaiseki courses, here you’ll find restaurants offering all types of cuisine from Italian to Thai. There’s even a bar where you can enjoy tasty cocktails alongside the river at night. Kamogawa is a great choice for travelers looking for affordable options and a convenient location to experience kawadoko. There’s something for everyone.

Directions: From JR Kyoto Station, take Kyoto City Bus Route 104 from Kyoto Ekimae Bus stop and get off at Shijo Kawaramachi. It’s about a 5-minute walk from here to the river.

Where to start: For a unique take on the kawadoko experience, visit the bar Atlantis and imbibe on your beverage of choice as you watch the night unfold along the Kamogawa River. If you’re looking for a quick and easy way to relax along the river without the fuss of a full course, Atlantis has you covered.

Atlantis  (アトランティス)
Address: 161, Matsumotocho, Pontochodori Shijonoboru, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8013
Opening hours: 6pm - 2am (Mon-Sat), 6pm - 1am (Sun)
Tel: +81-75-241-1621

Header image credit: photoAC