Welcome back, Tadami Line! Chasing autumn views on one of Japan's most scenic train lines
Known for its stunning scenery, the Tadami Line (只見線 Tadami-sen) is a 135.2km-long railway line running between Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (会津若松駅 Aizu-Wakamatsu-eki) in Fukushima Prefecture (福島県 Fukushima-ken) and Koide Station (小出駅 Koide-eki) in Niigata Prefecture (新潟県 Niigata-ken).
Photography opportunities abound along the Tadami Line. (Image credit: photoAC)
Mostly meandering around the Aizu region in Western Fukushima, the Tadami Line runs along the scenic Tadami River (只見川 Tadami-gawa), with many mountains visible in the distance. If you’re a toritetsu (撮り鉄 train photography enthusiast), you might have seen photos of or heard of this line, as it is home to many picturesque photo spots that have long enchanted railway photography enthusiasts.
Reopening sign and artwork at Aizu-Wakamatsu Station. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
In July 2011, heavy rain caused floods that badly damaged the Tadami Line, destroying and sweeping away bridges and railway tracks, so train services for certain parts of the Tadami Line were suspended, and replaced with bus services. Finally, after almost 11 years, the entire line finally resumed operations on 1 October 2022!
My first encounter with the Tadami Line was in February 2020, when I finally got to visit its most famous viewpoint—the No.1 Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint—after years of admiring photos taken by Mr Hoshi Kenko, a local photographer said to be a man who photographs the Tadami Line 300 days a year.
Places mentioned in this article. (Image credit: Google Maps)
After Japan announced the reopening of borders to individual tourists, I knew that I had to take a trip to visit the newly reopened Tadami Line. This time, I wanted to see more viewpoints, catch the autumn colours, and ride the entire line from end-to-end.
Thus, earlier this month, I embarked on a 2-day trip to Fukushima’s Aizu region, where I would take a bus to check out some Tadami Line viewpoints on the first day, and ride the entire line the following day. In this two-part series, we will explore the Tadami Line in autumn, starting with scenic views in Part 1, and taking a ride on the entire line in Part 2. Are you ready? Let’s go!
Setting off from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station
Taking the Okuaizu Burari Tabi bus. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
In early November 2022, I visited Aizu-Wakamatsu. It was autumn, and during this period, Aizu Bus (会津バス) was operating the Okuaizu Burari Tabi (奥会津ぶらり旅) bus. This bus followed a fixed route, and with the one-day ticket, you could hop on and hop off whenever you liked, depending on what activities you wanted to do. The Okuaizu area is a bit hard to travel to if you don’t drive, so this bus service was great for visitors like me.
There were several ticket options, with Option A being just the bus ticket, Option B including a ticket for a day-use hot spring at Hayato, and Option C including a ride on the Mugenkyo boat. Options A and B could be bought on the day itself, but Option C required prior reservations as the Mugenkyo boat ride has very limited seats. With all options, you also got a ¥500 voucher which could be used at the roadside stations (道の駅 Michi-no-eki) that the bus stopped at.
Path towards the viewpoint. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The bus departed the bus terminal in front of Aizu-Wakamatsu Station at 11:20, which was a great timing for those coming in from Tokyo or other cities for a weekend trip. It took about an hour to reach our first viewpoint destination: the No.1 Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint (第一只見川橋梁ビューポイント Dai-ichi Tadami-gawa Kyōryō Byūpointo).
Although the Tadami Line is full of stunning viewpoints of the Tadami River and its various bridges, one of the easiest to reach by public transport is the No. 1 Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint. This viewpoint is accessible all year round, and autumn is one of the most colourful times to enjoy the view.
Michi-no-eki Mishima-juku (道の駅みしま宿) is the closest roadside station to the viewpoint, and the Okuaizu Burari Tabi bus arrived at around 12:30. It waits there until 13:20, so that passengers can get off to go to the viewpoint. The timing is perfect too, as there would be a train crossing the bridge at around 13:05.
No.1 Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint
Climbing up to the viewpoints. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
From the roadside station, it is about a 10-minute walk up to the viewpoints. As soon as I got off the bus, I immediately drawn to the vivid yellow and orange shades erupting on the leaves of the trees, and as I climbed up the steps, the beauty of the autumn colours almost made me forget how steep and muddy the climb was.
View from Viewpoint B. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
There are actually four viewpoints here: A, B, C, and D, with D being the highest up. I must have missed A, as I only noticed the signs for B onwards. Viewpoint B is a little low, so the bridge is partially blocked by vegetation. However, the beautiful colours of the mountains in the distance could still be seen very clearly from here.
View of the No.1 Tadami River Bridge from Viewpoint C. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Climbing up a few more flights of stairs led to Viewpoint C, which was personally my favourite viewpoint. I appreciated how the distance between the viewpoint and the bridge was just right, and how the vibrant autumn colours that framed the scenery were simply splendid! The tranquil emerald waters of the Tadami River were like a mirror, perfectly reflecting the arched bridge.
Visitors at Viewpoint C. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Under the viewpoint signs, a timetable was posted, detailing the times and directions that trains would be crossing the No.1 Tadami River Bridge below. It is a good reminder for visitors coming in hopes to get a glimpse of the elusive trains, as trains on the Tadami Line only come once every few hours.
Final stairs up to Viewpoint D. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
From Viewpoint C, there is a gorgeous canopy of leaves that form a tunnel over the final flight of stairs to Viewpoint D. When I visited, almost all the leaves were a vibrant yellow, with some turning orange. The ground was also covered with fallen orange and brown leaves, and walking through this truly felt like a quintessential autumn scene.
Train photography enthusiasts seeing up at Viewpoint D. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Viewpoint D, the highest elevation viewpoint, has the most benches for resting, and was also the most crowded, with many visitors bringing their tripods, zoom lenses, and professional camera gear. Finally, it was time to prepare for the most exciting part of the trip here—waiting for the train to arrive. I realised too late that it was a bit far for phone camera users like me, but the train was coming soon, and there was no time to head back down to Viewpoint C.
A train crossing the No.1 Tadami River Bridge, as seen from Viewpoint D. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The No. 1 Tadami River Bridge is located between JR Aizu-Nishikata Station (会津西方駅 Aizu-Nishikata-eki) and JR Aizu-Hinohara Station (会津桧原駅 Aizu-Hinohara-eki). This time, the train would be coming from Aizu-Nishikata Station on our left side, which could also be seen from this viewpoint. As the train departed the station, we could hear its rhythmic rumbling as it rolled along the tracks, and the crowd started exclaiming excitedly, “It’s coming soon!”, and “Almost!”.
Finally, the two-carriage train emerged from the tunnel and appeared on the bridge, and the clicking of the cameras began. This moment only lasted a few seconds though, for the train soon disappeared back into the vegetation at the other end of the bridge.
Views from the bus: Mugenkyo boat, bridges, and more
Passing by the No.3 Tadami River Bridge. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
After the train crossed the bridge, we made our way back to the Okuaizu Burari Tabi Bus. As the bus continued on its way towards Hayato Station, we passed through a tunnel where many cars were stopped along the side, and many tripods set up.
This is another popular viewpoint for photography enthusiasts coming by car, who came to photography the No.3 Tadami River Bridge (第三只見川橋梁 Dai-san Tadami-gawa Kyōryō), shown in the image above. Unfortunately, the bus did not stop here, but we could still enjoy fantastic fall foliage from the comfort of our seats on the bus.
Mugenkyo boat ride. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The road followed the river closely, and at every turn, we were greeted with the sight of the Tadami River and amazing autumn colours. At the next stop, Hayato Station (早戸駅 Hayato-eki), passengers got off for the following activities: to soak in the hot springs of Hayato Onsen, or to take the Mugenkyo boat ride (霧幻峡の渡し Mugenkyо̄ no Watashi) across the Tadami River.
Mugenkyo boat ride in summer. (Image credit: photoAC)
Based on the local flat-bottom boats used in the past, the Mugenkyo boat ride was started by Mr Hoshi Kenko (星 賢孝), a photographer native to Mishima Town who has contributed much to revitalising the Okuaizu Region. If you have seen some unbelievably dreamy photos of the Tadami Line, it was probably taken by him—he is also known as the man who photographs the Tadami Line 300 days a year. For me, it was through seeing his photographs that made me strongly feel “I want to visit this place someday”, and I am sure that I am not the only one.
View of the Tadami River from the bus. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
As the bus left Hayato Station, I was the only passenger left on the bus. All of the other passengers had gotten off to ride the Mugenkyo boat or to soak at the hot springs, but being the railway enthusiast that I am, I wanted to go to the Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba viewpoint, one of the other more accessible viewpoints along the Tadami Line.
Just like the railway tracks, the road runs along the Tadami River, and I got to enjoy fantastic autumn colours and scenery from the comfort of my bus seat.
No.4 Tadami River Bridge. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
As the bus continued on its route towards the roadside station Michi-no-eki Okuaizu Kaneyama (道の駅奥会津かねやま) in Kaneyama Town, the friendly bus driver became my personal audio guide, pointing out sights as we drove along. To my delight, from the bus, I got to enjoy a good view of the No.4 Tadami River Bridge (第四只見川橋梁 Dai-yon Tadami-gawa Kyōryō), and the still waters were such a mesmerising emerald colour.
Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba
Around Michi-no-eki Okuziau Kaneyama. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The bus does not stop at the Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba; it stops at the nearby roadside station, Michi-no-eki Okuaizu Kaneyama (道の駅奥会津かねやま), at around 13:55. Here, you could get some local produce, souvenirs, and warm food, and there are also small exhibition corners displaying photographs of the Tadami Line and old Tadami Line objects.
The balcony at Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
I bought some rice balls from the roadside station, and made my way towards the viewpoint, which was an open space by the road. The Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba (かねやまふれあい広場) viewpoint is about a 30-minute walk from the roadside station, in the direction towards Aizu-Kawaguchi Station.
View from Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba without a train (left), and with a passing train (right). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh and photoAC)
From the Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba viewpoint, you can get a close-up shot of passing trains, as the tracks are very close to the viewpoint. People come here for the picturesque view of the train passing by the river, against a backdrop of the mountains. Along the riverbanks in the background you can see a small village, Oshi Village, with colourful houses. How wonderful it must be to wake up to beautiful views of the river every morning!
Unfortunately, it was raining when I visited, and there were no trains passing by, but I could still imagine the view in my mind. Kaneyama Town is said to be home to naturally occurring carbonated hot springs, so I’d love to come back again to try them out, and have another go at taking photos from this viewpoint!
Heading back from Aizu-Kawaguchi Station
Aizu-Kawaguchi Station. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba viewpoint is just a 10-minute walk from Aizu-Kawaguchi Station (会津川口駅 Aizu-Kawaguchi-eki), which is where I headed next. If you are coming by train, you could take the Tadami Line to Aizu-Kawaguchi Station, then walk to the viewpoint.
Initially, I was planning on taking a train back to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, but when the train arrived, it was packed with passengers! It was great to see support from Japanese domestic tourists, who had also come to see the autumn colours along the line and to support its reopening. I reminded myself that I would have a long time to ride the train the following day, so I took some photos around the station platform and decided to take the bus back to Aizu-Wakamatsu instead.
Running alongside a train is exciting. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
I thought my journey of chasing views had ended, but there was one surprise experience awaiting me. As the bus left Aizu-Kawaguchi Station, the Tadami Line train also departed, and we saw it along the way. The road conditions were good, so our fantastic bus driver adjusted his driving speed for us to run side-by-side with the train on the way to Hayato Station, which was such a thrilling experience!
We first caught a glimpse of the train on a bridge to our left, partially covered by trees. After a while, it emerged, and we could see passengers waving at us, so we waved back! The train disappeared for a while when the tracks went under the road, but it re-emerged on our right after. This time, we got to witness the train running alongside the gorgeous waters of the Tadami River, with the colourful autumn foliage in the background.
Sadly, we had to part ways when the train slowed down as it reached Hayato Station. Our bus carried on along the road, and we bid the train farewell as we made our way back to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station to conclude the bus trip.
Getting there
No. 1 Tadami River Bridge in different seasons. (Image credit: photoAC)
The Tadami Line is a favourite among railway photography enthusiasts, filled countless beautiful spots to take enchanting photos of trains and bridges. For someone like me who travels by public transport and doesn’t drive, the Okuaizu Burari Tabi bus was a great way to enjoy some of those views. However, do note that it is a seasonal bus. This time, I visited during autumn, when it ran every day from 1 October to 20 November. Do check the website as the operation dates and timetables differ each year.
Stay tuned for Part 2, where I share about my experience riding the newly reopened entire Tadami Line from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station to Koide Station!
Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (left) and Koide Station (right). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The Tadami Line runs between Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in Fukushima Prefecture and Koide Station in Niigata Prefecture. All the viewpoints mentioned in this article are located in Fukushima Prefecture, and are accessible via the Aizu-Wakamatsu side.
- To get to Aizu-Wakamatsu: From Tokyo Station, take the Tо̄hoku Shinkansen to Kо̄riyama Station (~80 minutes), then transfer to the Ban-etsu West Line and take it to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (~70 minutes).
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) and usage area. (Image credit: JR East)
If you are visiting the Tadami Line and the Aizu Region, check out the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area), an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days at only ¥30,000. You can also make seat reservations for bullet trains, some limited express trains and Joyful Trains online for free, up to 1 month in advance, on the JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. (Image credit: JR East)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) can be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass.
Header image credit: photoAC
Related Articles
Carissa Loh
Latest Topics
