Discovering Fukui Crafts: Japan’s Washi Paper Capital

If you have a strong appreciation for “Made in Japan”, and the dedication and drive for perfection displayed by artisans of any field or trade—a.k.a. the “shokunin (職人) spirit”, then you may know that such artisan crafts with centuries of history remain deeply rooted throughout Japan.

Something perhaps lesser-known however is the fact that amongst the many Japanese craft sites, Fukui Prefecture (福井県) is actually a major production centre.

Specifically, Fukui is the top producer of washi paper (和紙) in Japan, and the oldest producer of Japanese lacquerware.

Fukui: The land of washi and lacquerware

A major factor for that is Fukui’s climate. In Fukui, there’s a local saying that goes: “You can forget your lunch, but never forget your umbrella.”  This reflects the fact that half the year is marked by rainy days, and the winters often bring heavy snowfall. Interestingly, this challenging weather encouraged locals to find work indoors, resulting in the flourishing growth of home-based craft industries.

Curious for more on the story of Fukui’s millennial-old traditional crafts heritage? This two-part article series introduces existing local businesses that have backed Fukui as a craft capital over generations, hearing directly from the current generation on the story and spirit behind their work (and also how you can get your hands on their masterpieces, right here in Singapore!)

For this first article, we focus on Fukui washi, the representative traditional Japanese paper commonly seen in sliding doors and origami.

Water for Washi

In the case of washi paper, another key factor other than weather, is water. Fukui’s water is soft, meaning it has a low mineral content, a quality that is perfect for producing washi. This natural asset has allowed the region of Echizen (越前) in Fukui to flourish as Japan’s top washi producer for the past 1,500 years.

The water is combined with three main plant-based raw materials: kozo mulberry (楮), mitsumata (三椏) and gampi (雁皮), resulting in washi varieties of different fineness and texture.

Taki Seishi: Washi in Modern Design

Recreating the texture of a wall plaster design using washi. | ©Kitchen Minoru

Found in the washi village of Goka (五箇) in Echizen is the Taki Seishi (滝製紙所) paper mill, which has been producing washi for nearly 150 years. Their mainstay product are machine-made large washi sheets for fusuma (襖), those paper sliding doors you find in traditional Japanese architecture.

Seventh-generation Hideaki Taki. | ©Kitchen Minoru

The family business is currently helmed by seventh-generation Hideaki Taki, who had once left Fukui and his family business to work as a designer in Osaka. However, after witnessing how villagers, staff, and even rival companies all pitched in to help when the family’s paper mill caught fire, he changed his mind. Touched by the unity of the community, he decided to return to his hometown.

One innovative method is the use of spray from a hose to create designs on wallpaper. | ©Kitchen Minoru

Water droplets are splashed on the washi mix to depict the cratered surface of the moon. | ©Kitchen Minoru

While preserving traditional techniques that he learnt from scratch, Taki has also taken washi in new directions. His works stand out as big and bold pieces with modern design and textures, used for wallpaper, eye-catching hotel lobby displays, and even avant-garde backdrops for motor shows. 

Samples of Taki Seishi’s washi products. | ©Kitchen Minoru

Taki is also introducing washi to the world through art events, such as the Maison & Objet exhibition to be held in Paris this September, for which he will be presenting a series of washi art depicting the moon. 

In reference to these moon-themed works, Taki explains that the appeal of washi lies in how its expression can be changed through the combination of materials used, even while being monochromatic. In other words, a variety of patterns conveying different expressions can be created from just one colour.

Okamoto Shrine and Otaki Shrine. | ©Kitchen Minoru

Just a 5-minute drive from the Taki Seishi paper mill are Okamoto Shrine (岡太神社) and Otaki Shrine (大瀧神社), which enshrine the goddess of paper. This goddess is believed to have taught the villagers how to make washi 1,500 years ago, explaining the origins of Goka as a washi village. 

Taki Seishi (滝製紙所)
Address: Otaki 27-30, Echizen, Fukui, 915-0234
Access: 30-minute bus ride from Takefu Station (武生駅), followed by 13-minute walk

Sugihara Washipaper Inc.: A 150-year-old washi wholesaler

Washi sommelier Yoshinao Sugihara of the 150-year-old washi wholesaler, Sugihara Washipaper Inc. | ©Kitchen Minoru

A unique aspect of the Goka washi village is that it still has wholesalers playing the role of maintaining the demand and supply of washi.

Like the Taki Seishi paper mill, Sugihara Washipaper Inc. (杉原商店) has been around since the Meiji era over 150 years ago. The Sugihara family opened a paper store at Nihonbashi (日本橋) in Tokyo about a century ago and provided paper for the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Taisho in 1915. They have worked with Taki Seishi for years in introducing the traditional craft of Echizen washi to the rest of Japan and the world. 

Yoshinao Sugihara, the tenth-generation proprietor of the wholesaler business, highlights the ever-evolving spirit of Goka village’s washi industry, adapting their production to modern uses such as fusuma door panels, when they could no longer rely on the patronage of the feudal lord of ancient times. Sugihara himself has delved into fusing Echizen washi with modern architecture, some of his esteemed collaborations including GUERLAIN in Paris and Takashimaya in Nihonbashi. 

The endless possibilities of washi are on display in this stylish showroom set in a renovated washi warehouse. | ©Kitchen Minoru

These washi zen stones will also be available at LUMINE Singapore’s pop-up Fukui store. | ©Kitchen Minoru

On that note, a particular spot of interest in Goka Village is the modern showroom that Sugihara Washipaper has converted from a centuries-old storeroom. The displays showcase how traditional washi has been used from past to present, including stylish items that add a touch of sophistication to modern everyday life. 

Think cards, face masks, and even papier-mâché decorations, such as a washi rendition of zen stones!

The Sugihara Washipaper Inc. estate, recognised as a National Tangible Cultural Property. | ©Kitchen Minoru

Do also check out Sugihara Washipaper’s estate itself, designated as a National Tangible Cultural Property (登録有形文化財). Within the traditional architecture dating back over 150 years are artefacts that speak of their proud heritage as Fukui’s leading washi village wholesaler. 

Sugihara Washipaper Inc. (杉原商店)
Address: 17-2 Oizucho, Echizen, Fukui 915-0235
Access: 30-minute bus ride from Takefu Station (武生駅), followed by 8-minute walk

From Japan, to Singapore: Discover Fukui crafts @ LUMINE Singapore 

From 27 August 2024, Fukui crafts will be available at the opening of LUMINE Singapore’s new global flagship store as a pop-up store.

Of course, there is no more authentic experience than visiting the sites of production for yourself, especially when Fukui offers so many other hidden gems, from nature to cuisine. 

But even if you’re not able to visit anytime soon, you can still get your hands on the craft products mentioned, right here in Singapore! Specifically, at LUMINE Singapore’s pop-up store from late August 2024, featuring Fukui’s representative Japanese traditional crafts, commemorating the opening of their new flagship store at Raffles City Shopping Centre. 

In addition to washi paper and accessories spun-off from the famous eyewear of Sabae, Echizen shikki (漆器)—the very first lacquerware produced in Japan—will also be available. In fact, that is what we will be covering in our next article, so stay tuned for more heartfelt shokunin stories from Fukui.

This article is adapted from LUMINE Singapore.

Header image credit: ©Kitchen Minoru