Seeing Tokushima through indigo-tinted glasses: A true “blue” Singaporean guide
It felt like yesterday when I first stepped foot in Tokushima Prefecture (徳島県 Tokushima-ken), four years back. There was a mysterious attraction that drew me back to Tokushima several times before landing myself a job there two years ago.
This is me with the harvested indigo plants. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
“Why Tokushima?”, a question I recalled many friends, or even Japanese whom I crossed paths with, asked. As a prefecture that is located in Japan’s smallest main island Shikoku (四国), Tokushima is a spot that usually flies under the radar whenever people consider where to visit in Japan. It is not common for someone to visit Tokushima other than in the summer for Awa Odori, much less getting a job there as a foreigner.
So, why Tokushima?
I was attracted to the depth of a particular colour named indigo (藍 ai). I am guessing that everyone should be familiar with the term “Japan Blue”—if not, you may find out more from this article.
(Image credit: txarli san / CC BY 2.0)
Indigo or “Japan Blue” was a colour that flourished in the Edo Period (1603–1868). Believed to have anti-bacterial and fire-retardant properties, it is commonly used by the samurai and firemen in olden Japan times. At some point in time, denim jeans, something we are more familiar with, were dyed by natural indigo!
There are many famous indigo dyers across Japan but stories on where it came from and how it came about are usually not told. The answer lies in Tokushima Prefecture.
Awa Ai
The mighty Yoshino River of Tokushima Prefecture. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
Tokushima Prefecture—or Awa (阿波), the old name for Tokushima—has been responsible for more than 90% of natural indigo production for the whole of Japan since the Edo Period. The term awa ai (阿波藍) was coined to differentiate the indigo produced in Tokushima from elsewhere. Thanks to the Yoshino River (吉野川) that cuts through the prefecture, the soil in the region is warm and suitable for indigo cultivation.
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
“Cultivation?” Yes, indigo is a colour extracted from a plant—the leaves, to be exact!
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
In the past, people who lived along the Yoshino River were mostly indigo farmers. They cultivated the indigo plant, turning them into naturally-fermented or composted leaves called the sukumo (蒅), which is the main ingredient in the indigo dye vat. They are then shipped out to the rest of Japan via the Yoshino River—just like how we used the Singapore River in the past!
A year in the life of an indigo farmer
The process of indigo farming is beautiful but also laborious and time-consuming. It takes up to one year of production before arriving at the final product of indigo, the ingredient used for dyeing. The job of an indigo farmer never ends—which also means that in Tokushima, there is always something new to learn and experience at any time of the year.
I’ve spent two years out in the fields learning about the indigo plant, how to tend to and cultivate them, and often stayed up late at night experimenting with various indigo dyeing techniques in a studio in Tokushima. So, let me briefly bring you through the timeline of the indigo farming process!
Indigo seedlings. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
This is the weeding process that helps to soften the soil, which in turn allows the network of roots to grow deeper. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
In spring, indigo farmers germinate the seeds before transferring them into fields and taking care of them until they mature.
Harvesting the indigo plant is done with this machine that cuts the crops about 10cm above ground and then picks them up with an automated belt. We’ll then collect them in bundles on the other end. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
This is how the leaves look like after they are separated from the stems, and dried. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
By the time summer comes, the indigo plants are fully grown and ready to be harvested.
At this stage, there is a distinct smell of fermentation and mild ammonia that is emitted from the pile of dried leaves. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
The dried leaves are then brought out in autumn for fermentation. This helps to preserve the leaves for a longer period of time. After close to 20 weeks of fermentation, in winter the leaves become sukumo, the main ingredient to make an indigo dye vat.
Keeping the tradition alive
When Indian indigo powder was first introduced to Japan followed by chemical indigo dye in the past two centuries, the fact that they are cost-efficient and less laborious caused a shift in the demand of natural indigo. The huge decline in demand of Japanese Indigo also resulted in the indigo farmers turning to cultivating other types of crops. Now, there are only five master indigo farmers left. They have taken over the responsibilities from the generations before and are still serving the country’s needs for natural indigo.
(Image credit: Peggy Osterkamp)
One of the five master indigo farmers is Nii Osamu (新居修), the sixth generation of indigo farmers of the Nii family who has been in the indigo industry since the Edo Period. Nii Osamu is the current keeper of past transaction records which can be dated back to hundreds of years ago. Nii’s facility, Nii Sei Ai Syo (新居製藍所) still stands in the town of Kamiita near Yoshino River, where you can make a visit for a tour about indigo dye.
(Image credit: photoAC)
The first thing you would notice when you step into the property is the big courtyard. Houses of indigo farmers in the past used to consist of a big courtyard to accommodate the separation of leaves from the stem and drying of leaves under the sun. Subsequently, you will be able to feel indigo through all your senses depending on the time of the year —the smell of fresh leaves and sound of industrial fans during summer, and the distinct smell of fermentation during autumn and winter.
Nii Sei Ai Syo (新居製藍所)
Address: 12-5 Shichijo, Rokudoji,, Kamiita, Itano-gun, Tokushima, 771-1302
Nearest station: Itano Station (板野駅) / Ushinoshima Station (牛島駅)
Tel: +81 88-694-2455
A new age of indigo dye
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
Watanabe’s (ワタナベズ), a new age dyeing studio, is where you can get your hands dirty (literally!) and experience indigo dyeing first-hand. In fact, Watanabe’s is where I had the privilege of diving head-first into the craft of indigo dyeing for two years. Pop by anytime of the year to be shown around the studio and learn the process of indigo farming, followed by an indigo dyeing experience!
Watanabe Kenta (渡邉健太), founder of Watanabe’s, is one of the pioneers who merged the two crafts of indigo farming and indigo dyeing together. Having been around the business for more than 10 years, Watanabe has been trying to push the boundaries of indigo dye by exploring different mediums and by having collaborations with various fashion and lifestyle brands and partners. Watanabe is an outgoing people’s person, and you will be charmed from the moment you step into his one-level studio that is usually filled with an eclectic group of visitors each day.
Watanabe's (ワタナベズ)
Address: 314-10 Sebe, Kamiita, Itano-gun, Tokushima, 771-1350
Nearest station: Itano Station (板野駅) / Ushinoshima Station (牛島駅)
Opening hours: 10am–5pm (Closed on Wednesdays)
Tel: +81 80-1835-1731
More than just indigo
During my two years in Tokushima, I also discovered more reasons to fall in love with the place.
Through the lens of indigo, I met many inspiring people which led me to think that living in the countryside does not equate to having less fun than living in big cities. Needless to say, the countryside’s charm started to grow on me, and Tokushima slowly evolved into my second home.
Apart from the popular tourists-friendly searches you will find online, I would like to introduce you to some of my favourite things about Tokushima while I was living there.
Kintokibuta
Naruto Kintoki sweet potatoes. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
Kintokibuta (金時豚) is a local pork brand whose pigs are raised by feeding them with Naruto Kintoki sweet potatoes (鳴門金時), hence the name. It all started when the pig farm owner witnessed the sweet potatoes being thrown away for being “ugly” or “imperfect” and saw this quality “waste” as an opportunity to feed them to the pigs he rear.
Naruto Kintoki sweet potatoes. (Image credit: Felix Nai)
The flavour of meat produced from pigs who lived in a low-stress environment and quality feed is incomparable. It does not require extensive cooking methods because the fats are sweet and flavourful to begin with. I gradually became a regular in their store. Other than the fresh meat that they serve, my personal favourite is their ready-made Tonkatsu which sells out very quickly. Fastest finger first!
Apart from quality food, the pig farm owner serves quality ethics as well. As an ethical farmer, the owner aims to provide safe food to his consumers and be responsible for closing his own cycle of production. He took it upon himself to carry out proper composting process for his manure so that he can dispose of them responsibly and be of help to the other farmers around. The pig farm owner is also a committed contributor to the local education system by being personally involved in educating children about the full production process behind the products and food they handle everyday, in hopes of instilling better appreciation and decision-making in their future.
Kintokibuta no Ten Aguri Garden (金時豚の店アグリガーデン)
Address: 98-1 Nishiubagozen Yoshinocho Sajio, Awa, Tokushima, 771-1402
Opening hours: 10am–6pm (Closed on Wednesdays)
Nearest station: Ushinoshima Station (牛島駅)
Tel: +81 88-696-2983
Sobagomejiru
(Image credit: Tokushima City Tourism Division)
I was introduced to Sobagomejiru (そば米汁), or buckwheat porridge, during a visit to a local elementary school in Tokushima. It is usually a clear, light soy sauce soup with vegetables and buckwheat groats.
Sobagomejiru is a local cuisine of Tokushima and a simple soup dish that tastes different in every household. My landlord makes them for me regularly during our dinners together.
Mame Tama Okonomiyaki
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
Hayashi no Okonomiyaki (はやしの お好み焼き) is a must-visit place whenever my friends come to visit me in Tokushima. They are a popular shop known by the locals for rocking the old school eatery vibes. The moment you step into the shop, you will hear the clinking sound of the spatula against the hot plates and the smell of okonomiyaki that fills the air.
The reason why I always bring my friends over is the interesting flavour of okonomiyaki that is only available in Tokushima—Mame Tama (豆玉). It consists of a sweet red kidney bean known as the Kintoki Mame (金時豆). The balance between savoury and sweetness of the okonomiyaki is what always brings me back everytime. However, beware of the large serving portions if you are a small eater!
Hayashi no Okonomiyaki (はやしの お好み焼き)
Address: 1-30-1 Minamiuchimachi, Tokushima, 770-0846
Opening hours: 11am–8pm (Closed on Sundays)
Nearest station: Tokushima Station (徳島駅)
Tel: +81 120-237-120
Wasanbon
(Image credit: Felix Nai)
Lastly, to end my article on a sweet note—have you ever heard of wasanbon (和三盆)? Wasanbon is an extremely fine-grained sugar that leaves a hint of floral scent and a mellow aftertaste in your mouth. They can usually be found in Japanese confectionery or desserts. It is made from a special variety of sugarcane which can be found only in Tokushima and neighbouring Kagawa Prefecture (香川県 Kagawa-ken), and is considered as one of the finest quality sugar in Japan. The seeds of the sugarcane are not for sale, and are passed down from generations to generations. It takes up to a year to cultivate and process the sugar canes before arriving at the refined sugar.
If you have some time, I would like to invite you to either; enjoy a tour around the wasanbon factory in Okada Sugar Manufacture (岡田製糖所) and watch as the craftsmen skillfully knead the refined sugar by hands during the winter season and understand all the hard work put into making this sugar, or attend a wasanbon workshop conducted by the passionate young boss of Wansanbon (わんさんぼん) in which he would teach you how to shape the wasanbon into interesting patterns with molds.
Okada Sugar Manufacture (岡田製糖所)
Address: 12-1 Haranakasuji, Izumidani, Kamiita, Itano District, Tokushima, 771-1310
Opening hours: 8am–5pm (Weekdays), 9am–5pm (Weekends)
Nearest station: Itano Station (板野駅) / Ushinoshima Station (牛島駅)
Tel: +81 88-694-2020
Wansanbon (阿波和三盆糖製造元 服部製糖所)
Address: 270 Higashiubagozen, Yoshinocho Sajio, Awa, Tokushima, 771-1402
Opening hours: 9am–5pm (Saturday–Wednesday, closed on last Sunday of the month)
Nearest station: Ushinoshima Station (牛島駅)
Tel: +81 88-696-5270
Indigo-tinted glasses
I dived into Tokushima hoping to learn more about indigo, but what I got out of it was so much more than just that. Tokushima was the place that taught me the true meaning behind the saying “It takes a village to raise a child”. It was the local community who saw me as an equal, and their generosity and kindness has helped me learn in so many ways beyond my imagination. Through these indigo-tinted glasses, my eyes were opened to topics on sustainability such as exploring waste streams, zero-waste efforts, and circular economy (which I will be sharing more in my next article!), and I am set to pay whatever I have received from Tokushima forward. To this place that I hold dear to my heart, thank you.
Header image credit: Felix Nai
Writer's profile: Ex-aspiring fashion designer, ex-steward, ex-military officer and now, indigo dye practitioner extraordinaire. It's been two years of honing his skills with Watanabe’s, an indigo dye haven in Tokushima Prefecture, and he doesn't plan on stopping anytime soon. In fact, his next step is to spread the wonders of the dye, and to foster the importance of the environment and sustainability.
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