Take me to Toyama: Enjoying Toyama Bay’s seaside and seafood
We’re back with part 2 of our “Take me to Toyama” series where we share with you the highlights of our recent Toyama adventure! Apart from visiting Wakatsuru Shuzo’s Sabunomaru Distillery in Tonami City (砺波市 Tonami-shi), we got the chance to explore the beautiful castle town of Takaoka (高岡市 Takaoka-shi). But first, we’re making a stop along one of Japan’s most beautiful coastline views at Amaharashi Coast Quasi-national Park (雨晴海岸 Amaharashi-kaigan), followed by feasting on some of the prefecture’s freshest seafood from Toyama Bay (富山湾 Toyama-wan).
Amaharashi Coast
Expectations vs. reality. Maybe if we squint our eyes hard enough we’ll be able to make out the silhouette of the majestic Japanese Alps in the background! (Image credit: photoAC & JR East / Sue Lynn)
Amaharashi Coast is located between Takaoka City and Himi City (氷見市 Himi-shi) and makes for the perfect resting stop for those travelling along the Sea of Japan (日本海 Nihonkai). It is most popular for its winning combination of coastal views with the mountain backdrop. The majestic view of the Japanese Alps or Tateyama Mountains Range (立山連峰) looming above Toyama Bay changes with each season. The area stretching Amaharashi Coast has been designated as “One of Japan's Best 100 White-sand and Green-pine Beaches” and “One of Japan's Best 100 Beaches”.
Unfortunately, the mountains were a little shy when we visited—but it was pretty cloudy during the entire day of our Toyama trip, so for blue skies to appear as we approached Amaharashi was a miracle!
The view from Michi-no-eki Amaharashi. (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
Take a rest at Michi-no-eki Amaharashi and snack on Shiroebiman before continuing your journey! (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
Before we made our way to the bayshore, we visited the Amaharashi Roadside Station (道の駅雨晴 Michi-no-eki Amaharashi), a rest stop which provided us panoramic views of Amaharashi. The michi-no-eki also served simple snacks and beverages so we snacked on the local Shiroebi Bun (白海老マン Shiro-ebi man), made with Toyama’s native broad glass shrimp.
A nearby shrine and a peek through the pine trees. (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
After a short break, we made our way down to the shore that’s along the tracks of the JR Himi Line (氷見線 Himi-sen) to get up-close and personal with the beautiful Toyama Bay. The sand was rough, the water cold, the wind breezy, but we couldn't help but to stop and stare (and snap a thousand and one photos) at the beautiful view right in front of us. If you prefer a less static view, you’ll be happy to know that Toyama Prefecture offers the “Toyama Bay Cycling Route” along this scenic view—many cyclists stopped by this viewpoint and shrine. You can find out more about cycling in Toyama Bay here.
The train comes once every hour so be sure to plan ahead! (Image credit: JR East / Julia Yee)
If you’re coming from Takaoka Station, take a 20-minute train ride on the JR Himi Line and alight at Amaharashi Station (雨晴駅 Amaharashi-eki). The view is spectacular as the train rides along the sea between Amaharashi Station and Himi Station (氷見駅 Himi-eki). Apart from the majestic mountain range, this spot is also famous for viewing sunrises—Himi's sunrise has been named as one of Japan's top 100 sunrises, too. The best part is that this line is covered by the Japan Rail Pass and the Hokuriku Arch Pass.
Attention to all trainspotters, don’t miss the opportunity to snap a photo of the Himi Line train with the beautiful coastline as its background! Being the amateurs that we were, we got too excited upon hearing the incoming train and didn’t realise that there we were standing on the less scenic side of the tracks… So learn from our mistakes and be sure to stand on the other side of the tracks nearer to the road to catch this photogenic moment!
Amaharashi Coast Quasi-national Park (雨晴海岸)
Address: Ota, Takaoka, Toyama, 933-0134
Nearest station: Amaharashi Station (雨晴駅)
Access: 5-minute walk from the station
Tel: +81 766-20-1547
Toyama Bay Sushi
What’s better than eating sushi in Japan? Eating sushi in an unassuming restaurant in a quaint neighbourhood in Japan, of course! (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
A trip to Toyama is incomplete without eating Toyama Bay Sushi (富山湾鮨 Toyamawanzushi). Our friend Momoko san from the Toyama Prefectural Government helped to shortlist a few of the many sushi restaurants in Toyama that served this local specialty. We settled with Sushi Masa (寿司正), a well-known sushi bar located within Sengoku-Machi Dori Street (千石町通り) in Toyama’s city centre. When we first arrived, we legitimately thought that we got the wrong address as the street was simply too quiet! But lo and behold, the sushi that awaited us were just a few steps away inside this unassuming building.
We helped ourselves to the counter seats to get a first-class view of the chefs in action. (Image credit: JR East / Julia Yee & Sue Lynn)
Voila, the star of Sushi Masa: Toyama Bay Sushi Set served on a Toyama Prefecture-shaped plate. (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
Sushi Masa is run by Chef Yamashita-san who even offered us an English menu before taking our orders. Of course, we ordered the Toyama Bay Sushi Set (¥3,300) which consists of 10 pieces of assorted seasonal sushi served atop Toyama-produced sushi rice with local-style miso soup. We visited in June, so we were served with the freshest spring-summer catch including hotaruika (ホタルイカ firefly squid), baigai (ばいがい Japanese ivory shell), and shiroebi (白海老 broad glass shrimp).
Our chef Yamashita-san is part of the Shinpi no Umi Toyamawan Kito-kito Kaido association (神秘の海富山湾きときと街道) to promote the local produce and history of Toyama Prefecture. (Image credit: JR East / Julia Yee)
Needless to say, every bite was delicious and our hungry selves devoured the entire plate within minutes. As it was dinnertime on a Friday night, we also noticed the restaurant getting more crowded with jolly salary workers chatting away with Yamashita-san. It was truly a local Toyama experience—the only thing missing was some local sake which we sadly didn’t order (we didn’t want to risk getting drunk on the job).
Sushi Masa (寿司正)
Address: 4-29 Ichibanmachi, Toyama, 930-0061
Nearest station: Ote Mall Station (大手モール駅)
Access: Take the Toyama Chihou Railway Loop Line from Toyama Station to Ote Mall Station, followed by a 1-minute walk.
Opening hours: 11am–1:30pm, 5–10pm (Weekdays), 5–10pm (Weekends) (Closed on Tuesdays)
Tel: +81 76-421-3860 (Reservations are encouraged)
*There are some irregular days that they are closed, so be sure to check their website before your visit.
As you can tell by the smiles on our faces, we really enjoyed our time in Toyama! (Image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn)
With over 200 species of fish and shellfish that can be enjoyed as food, Toyama Bay’s seafood served in the prefecture’s restaurants and shops is as fresh as it gets, and it is no wonder that Toyama Bay is often called “nature’s fish tank”. We hope that our article has enticed readers like you to take a trip to Toyama and admire the prefecture’s scenic and valuable bay. Do join us for Toyama Night at JAPAN RAIL CAFE on 21 June, Tuesday, 7pm (SGT) as we recount the rest of our adventure in Toyama while sipping on some UMESKY by Wakatsuru Shuzo!
Header image credit: JR East / Sue Lynn