Art is an explosion: 12 sites to spot avant-garde masterpieces by Okamoto Tarō
Have you seen the tower in the image above before? "Tower of the Sun" (太陽の塔 Taiyō no Tō) is known to many Osaka natives as one of the prefecture's most prominent symbols. Located at the Expo '70 Commemorative Park in Suita City, it was introduced to the world 50 years ago for the Annual World Expo '70—the first ever held in Asia. But who's the mastermind behind this eye-catching tower?
Okamoto Tarō in his studio in Minato, now converted to the Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum. (Image credit: PLAY TARO)
Okamoto Tarō (岡本太郎) (1911–1996) is one of Japan's most famous and influential contemporary artists known for his avant-
If you're a fan of Okamoto Tarō and are obsessed with collecting them all like stamp rallies, you'll want to check out as many of his artworks as possible! Dotted all around Japan, here's a list of 12 places that you should visit to appreciate some of Okamoto Tarō's masterpieces in person.
1. Tower of the Sun @ Expo '70 Commemorative Park, Suita, Osaka
(Image credit: JR Times / Sue Lynn)
Arguably Okamoto's most famous sculpture, the must-see "Tower of the Sun" was built in 1970 at the Expo '70 Commemorative Park, a park which remains a popular weekend destination for locals and tourists alike. The tower has 3 faces, each representing the past ("Black Sun", as seen on its back), present ("Face of the Sun", as seen on its front torso) and future ("Golden Mask", as seen of its front head) of Japan. During my visit to the park in summer 2016, I even chanced upon gashapon machines where you can bring a mini Tower of the Sun memorabilia home! For more than 40 years since the world fair, admission into the tower was closed off for visitors. But in March 2018, the tower has since once again opened its arms wide open to welcome visitors to check out its latest facility: Tower of the Sun Museum.
Expo '70 Commemorative Park (万博記念公園)
Address: 1-1 Senribanpakukoen, Suita, Osaka 565-0826 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Bampaku-kinen-kōen Station (万博記念公園駅)
Opening hours (Expo '70 Park): 9:30am–5:30pm (Daily)
Admission fee (Expo '70 Park): ¥200
Opening hours (Tower of the Sun Museum): 10am–5pm (Daily)
Admission fee (Tower of the Sun Museum): ¥720 (reservation required)
2. The Myth of Tomorrow @ Shibuya Station, Tokyo
(Image credit: @art)
If you've ever gotten lost navigating through the maze that is Shibuya Station before, chances are that you've walked past this 30m long mural. Permanently installed in 2008, the "Myth of Tomorrow" (明日の神話 Asu no Shinwa) mural was actually rediscovered after thought to be missing forever in the suburbs of Mexico for decades. The grotesque mural was originally painted in 1969—around the same period as when Tower of the Sun was conceived—and it depicts Okamoto's reflections on the horrific suffering brought about by the nuclear arms race of the Cold War and fear of nuclear weapons. The next time you make your way between the JR lines and Keio Line in Shibuya Station, try to take a moment to appreciate this powerful mural.
Shibuya Station (渋谷駅)
Address: 1-12-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0043
Location: Passageway between JR lines & Keio Line
3. Tree of Children @ Shibuya, Tokyo
(Image credit: @art)
Just a few minutes walk away between Shibuya Station and Omotesando Station stands the "Tree of Children" (こどもの樹 Kodomo no Ki). Erected in front of what used to be the National Children's Castle, this sculpture is a collection of colorful faces—all branching out showing different child-like expressions. The playful demeanour evoked by the sculpture tells us that perhaps Okamoto was a child at heart, or that he simply wants us to remember the kid inside us, even as we are walking through an urban jungle like Tokyo.
Fun fact: The Aoyama Farmer's Market is a weekend farmer's market that takes place in front of the United Nations University, just right next to this sculpture. Take this opportunity to check out both the market and Okamoto's Tree of Children if you're making a weekend visit.
National Children’s Castle (こどもの城)
Address: 5-53-1 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0001
Location: Next to United Nations University
Nearest station: Shibuya Station (渋谷駅) (Exit B3) / Omotesando Station (表参道駅) (Exit B2)
4. Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum @ Minato, Tokyo
(Image credit: Minato Travel & Tourism Association)
If you're already blown away by some of Okamoto's artworks thus far, imagine being in a museum full of them. Opened in 1998, the Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum used to be Okamoto's very own studio and residence for more than 50 years until he passed away in 1996. This museum preserves not only the compound of his residence like his garden, it also houses more than 500 of Okamoto's creations—both polished and unfinished—as well as the materials he used, all in the upstairs' gallery and the café lounge on the first floor. Just a short walk from Omotesando Station, the museum's jungle-garden exterior is hard to miss and sooner or later you'll find yourself being welcomed by the man('s wax figurine) himself!
Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum (岡本太郎記念館)
Address: 6-1-19 Minamiaoyama, Minato, Tokyo 107-0062 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Omotesando Station (表参道駅) (Exit A5)
Opening hours: 10am–6pm (Closed on Tuesdays)
Admission fee: ¥650
5. Taro Okamoto Museum of Art @ Ikuta Ryokuchi Park, Kawasaki, Kanagawa
(Image credit: Taro Okamoto Museum of Art)
Nestled in the heart of Kawasaki's biggest park, the Taro Okamoto Museum of Art was opened in 1999 and it features many of Okamoto's known works including those of his parents, Ippei and Kanoko Okamoto. In fact, it was in Kawasaki where the Okamoto family lived and that was where the artist himself grew up before heading to Paris to study at the age of 18, so it does seem fitting to have a museum located in his hometown. On top of the Permanent Exhibition, there are also special temporary exhibitions that feature Okamoto's collaborations with other artists, as well as artworks by artists who have taken inspiration by Okamoto. Not to mention, this museum is free for entry for children and junior high school students. After visiting the exhibitions, don't forget to check out the museum shop to buy unique memorabilia.
Within Ikuta Ryokuchi Park, there are also two other museums that are popular and worth stopping by: the Nihon Minka-en (Folk Houses) Open-Air Museum & the Kawasaki Municipal Science Museum. So plan ahead, because you'll definitely be able to have a day-long itinerary set aside when you visit this park.
Taro Okamoto Museum of Art (川崎市岡本太郎美術館)
Address: 7-1-5 Masugata, Tama Ward, Kawasaki, Kanagawa 214-0032 (how to get there)
Location: Ikuta Ryōkuchi Park
Nearest station: Mukogaoka-Yuen Station (向ヶ丘遊園駅)
Opening hours: 9:30am–5pm (Closed on Mondays)
Admission fee: Varies by exhibition
6. Sun Tower @ SOGO Yokohama, Yokohama, Kanagawa
(Image credit: @art)
Thinking of doing a daytrip out of Tokyo to the neighbouring city of Yokohama? Check out the many shopping malls this harbour city has to offer, including the Yokohama branch of SOGO Department Store. Located right next to the bustling city center Minatomirai, SOGO Yokohama was opened in 1985 and to commemorate its opening, Okamoto was commissioned to create this sculpture of a literal "Sun Tower" (太陽 Taiyō) at the mall's rooftop. Even after 35 years, the statue still stands tall and anyone can visit the open seating area at the roof. Similar to his Tower of the Sun, this golden sculpture has three phases (read: faces) of the sun: the gentleness of the morning sun, the fierceness of the afternoon sun, and the calmness of the setting sun.
SOGO Yokohama Department Store (そごう横浜店)
Address: 2-18-1 Takashima, Nishi Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa 220-0011
Location: Rooftop of SOGO Yokohama Department Store
Nearest station: Yokohama Station (横浜駅) (East Exit)
Opening hours: 10am–5pm
7. L’Homme Végétal @ The Hakone Open-Air Museum, Hakone, Kanagawa
(Image credit: PLAY TARO)
You could say that Okamoto is obsessed with translating natural motifs into his avant-garde sculptures, and he does it amazingly. Like many of his artworks, the "L'Homme Végétal" (樹人 Jyujin)—which means "plant man"—here, too, bursts with zest for life. You can find this sculpture, amongst many others, at the Hakone Open-Air Museum in everyone's favorite onsen town, Hakone. The Hakone Open-Air Museum is a great place for art-lovers and families alike to have a stroll in a huge outdoor art gallery. While the kids get to play with the hands-on art installations, the adults get to admire the brilliants sculptures created by sculptors and artists all around the world. Within the park, you should also visit the Picasso Pavilion, an indoor exhibition exclusively dedicated to introducing the works of Spanish artist Pablo Picasso. Coincidentally, Picasso happens to be one of Okamoto's biggest artistic influences!
The Hakone Open-Air Museum (彫刻の森美術館)
Address: 1121 Ninotaira, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0407 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Chōkokunomori Station (彫刻の森駅)
Opening hours: 9am–5pm
Admission fee: ¥1,600
8. Calling for Peace @ Funabashi Andersen Park, Funabashi, Chiba
(Image credit: Fuhito Motegi)
Popular amongst families and kids, this Danish-inspired theme park has recently attracted many visitors all around Japan and is especially crowded during the weekends and summer holidays. Funabashi Andersen Park has five different zones, and it’s even dotted with many sculptures including one made by Okamoto himself: "Calling for Peace" (平和を呼ぶ Heiwa wo Yobu).
Funabashi Andersen Park (ふなばしアンデルセン公園)
Address: 525 Kanehoricho, Funabashi, Chiba 274-0054 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Misaki Station (三咲駅)
Opening hours: 9:30am–4pm (Closed on Mondays)
Admission fee: ¥900
9. Looking at the Future @ Bampaku-kinen-kōen Station, Tsukuba, Ibaraki
(Image credit: @art)
The 3rd instalment of its kind in Japan, the world fair Expo '85 was held in the city of Tsukuba, home to one of Japan's most prestigious public universities, in Ibaraki Prefecture. Although not as huge a scale as Tower of the Sun, Okamoto was once again invited to create a sculpture, titled "Looking at the Future" (未来を視る Mirai wo Miru), to commemorate the commencement of the annual world fair that took place in the Tsukuba Science City to celebrate the advancements of science and technology that can be enjoyed by people of all walks of life. The butterfly-like sculpture was originally located at the Science Expo Memorial Park, but was since relocated in front of Bampaku-kinen-kōen Station (not to be confused with the monorail station of the same name connecting the Expo Park in Osaka) in 2005. The station is operated by the Tsukuba Express line which can be directly accessed all the way from Akihabara Station in Tokyo.
Bampaku-kinen-kōen Station (万博記念公園駅)
Address: Shimana, Tsukuba, Ibaraki 300-2655
Location: In front of Bampaku-kinen-kōen Station
10. Myth of the Forest @ Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel, Towada, Aomori
(Image credit: Hoshino Resorts)
Dubbed as one of the most picturesque autumn destinations in Tohoku, the Oirase Stream is a mountain stream that connects to the largest caldera lake of Honshu Island, Lake Towada. Many visitors would make it a point to enjoy a nice 9km-stroll along the beautiful stream between late spring to autumn. And what better way to enjoy the serenity of it all than a nightly stay at the Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel overlooking the stream and gorge? This hotel, hidden among the deep greenery of Towada-Hachimantai National Park, is where our next Okamoto's masterpiece lies. The "Myth of the Forest" (森の神話 Mori no Shinwa) is a majectic bronze fireplace that acts as the centerpiece of this exquisite hotel, depicting the harmonious relationship between humans and the creatures and spirits of the forest. Perhaps the most elegant out of all his other masterpieces, Okamoto's deep affection for the mystical surroundings of Oirase can be easily seen through this magnificent fireplace.
Both the hotel and hiking trail can be accessed from Hachinohe Station by JR Tohoku buses that run between 1-2 times a day depending on the season.
Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel (星野リゾート奥入瀬渓流ホテル)
Address: 231 Tochikubo, Okuse, Towada, Aomori 034-0301 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Hachinohe Station (八戸駅)
Opening hours: 10am–7pm
11. Unregistered Animal @ Chikuma River, Togura, Nagano
(Image credit: Arara Lunch)
Do you find this sculpture... peculiar? What's even more peculiar is the fact that this sculpture is located in a random side road, right next to a hot spring facility. According to a special report on PLAY TARO, this sculpture was part of a larger project which involved a 4-meter tall version of this little guy for an amusement park for that hot spring facility, which was previously called Togura Kamiyamada Health Center(旧戸倉上山田ヘルスセンター). Unfortunately, the project was shortlived due to the Matsushiro earthquake swarm in the mid-1960s. So, all that's left is one of the two smaller versions of this dog-like sculpture created in 1959. Apart from that, not much is known about the "Unregistered Animal" (無籍動物 Museki Dōbutsu)—which coincidentally stands on an unnamed road—but one thing is for sure: if you ever visit this particular sculpture, you're probably one of the very few people to have seen this in person!
Unnamed Road
Address: Unnamed Road, Togura, Chikuma, Nagano 389-0804
Location: Next to Hakuchoen Hot Springs
Nearest station: Togura Station (戸倉駅)
12. Okamoto's Grave @ Tama Cemetery, Fuchu, Tokyo
(Image credit: ミライノシテン & @art)
To end off this list of places that you can visit to appreciate Okamoto Tarō's artworks, I thought it would be fitting to include the Okamoto family's grave as the final entry. Okamoto passed away in 1996 at the age of 84, and he was interred in Tama Cemetery together with his parents and lifelong partner, Toshiko. On this grave, there are 2 Okamoto sculptures: "Afternoon" (午後の日 Gogo no Hi), a smiling mask sculpture marking Okamoto's grave, and "Face" (顔 Kao), Okamoto's very first three-dimensional sculpture created, dedicated to his father, Ippei.
I've personally visited this cemetery a few times before, yet I didn't manage to chance upon the Okamotos' grave. But that's not an uncommon occurence when you enter Japan's biggest municipal cemetery—you'd need a map or have the burial lot number in mind if you're looking for a specific person's grave. Tama Cemetery is a beautiful sanctuary where many notable persons are buried, including literary figure Yukio Mishima. As with all sacred sites, do be respectful and mindful if you're planning to visit the cemetery.
Tama Cemetery (多磨霊園)
Address: 4-628 Tama-cho, Fuchu, Tokyo 183-0002
Location: Burial Lot 16-1-17-3 (how to get there)
Nearest station: Tama Station (多磨駅)
Opening Hours: 8:30am–5:15pm
Art is an Explosion!
As you can tell from this non-exhaustive list, Okamoto Tarō was an artist who was generous in sharing his passion through his many artworks to the world. Before his passing, he was also a person whose infectious personality stole the hearts of many who watched him, either in person or through the media. Even after more than 24 years since his death, he and his artworks remain well-loved amongst art-lovers and by-passers alike, with his most famous statement, "Art is an explosion!" (芸術は爆発だ!Geijutsu wa bakuhatsu da!) still loudly echoing in his artworks.
Header image credit: JR Times / Sue Lynn